Tag Archives: Aquarium Lights

Forward:
As written in the forward in my other LED Lights Article. Likely, over time my biases will change, since LED lighting is a fast developing and changing aspect of aquarium keeping. Especially among those keeping reef and high tech planted aquariums.

From brand patents/exclusive license agreements, drivers, dimming, input/output energy, and more, the science speaks for itself!! The repeated experiences back up the science! Lighting and aquariums ARE science, albeit with art and personal preferences mixed in!

I try and mix simplified science for easy reading along with a lot of practical experience in this article. I cite many other related articles to back up the science and hopeful to make it easier for a overall easy learn of a very complex topic of aquatics. This information is backed up by experienced individuals, which I know well.

If we can understand the overall aquarium LED fixture, we can make an informed decision on our aquarium LED purchases.

Please read ALL my cited references and consider reading my other articles about Aquarium Lighting. They provides some foundation to the hows and whys of this article.
This includes consulting with professionals, which also includes consulting for lights I have not used as well as the use of pictures to fairly display all lights reviewed. These pictures show that pretty much all the lights reviewed will get the job done in some form or another.
I often make comparisons using one light in particular as a standard, but this does not mean the other lights do not work, far from it. But to not make provable comparisons using one light as a standard such as input wattage to output PUR would simply not make for an honest review. In the end, it is quite common in review to set up one product as a standard, such as using a Mercedes as a standard to compare other cars to. This does not mean a Mercedes is the car for everyone and that other cars do not work [of course this analogy may be poor in that I actually do not know what car might be the best one to set as a standard, but I am sure readers get the point!].

As well, this post/article is meant as a complement to this article:
LED Aquarium Lights, Lighting

This post is also meant as a compliment to a newer article:
Choosing Your Aquarium LED Lights

Overview:
Whenever choosing an LED, make sure it’s known as to what is trying to be achieved, such as Reef, Freshwater Planted, Nano Reef, Deep Freshwater Planted, etc.

Here’s how each of these reviews will be laid out:
* Review-
This Review will often include comparisons where they can be factually established as to input energy to PAR output for the simple reason that when LED aquarium lights first became a viable alternative for advanced planted and reef aquarims, the main reason to utilize LED was for their high efficiency compared to other lighting types.
Unfortunately of late, while most all popular aquarium LED lights can keep Reef or Planted tanks as advertised, many come at vastly lower efficiencies, some even rivalling Metal Halides in energy usage, which in this authors opinion defeats the purpose of utilizng LEDs in the first place.

* Specifications-
* Input/Output Energy
–Watts: where known for specific models used as examples
–PAR: where known for specific models used as examples
–Spectrum:
–Kelvin:
* Circuity/Dimming-
* Spread-
* Waterproof-
* Features-
* Mounting-
* Warranty-
* Resources-
* Coloration-

*FugeRay Original, Planted +, Marine

* Review, including overall review of ALL Finnex Lights-

This line of the Finnex is very similar to the Ray 2 models, but it does space out the emitters differently, which Finnex claims is idea for “refugium purposes as well as low-medium light needy aquariums”. This model does come with a moonlight switch. It also has a moisture resistant PC Splash Guard to protect against water mishaps.
The Planted 24/7 version offers “true” 660nm red LEDs, unlike others using just “red” LEDs.
Studies have found to be one of the most efficient wavelengths for plant photosynthesis. This also gives a warmer look to an aquarium.

Using the 20 inch model as an example; it has these emitters:
(72) 7000k, (40) 660nm RED, (8) Blue Moonlights

With this many emitters and a cost price point, these are clearly daisy chained together, which is OK for Christmas lights, but not high end LED fixtures. The result is loss of spectral quality (this is an undisputable fact too).

Reference: Aquarium Lighting Facts & Information; LED Lights

Again using the 20 inch model, at 15 watts input energy its output in “useful light energy” is poor compared to better built, non daisy chained LED lights such as the AquaRay.
With this 20″, 15 watt model Finnex, the PAR at 400mm of air tests at 40 µMol•m²•sec. This is .37 watt of input energy per mm of PAR.
Again compare to the 12 watt GroBeam #600 @ 61 µMol•m²•sec for the same distance with a much higher PUR as well. This is .19 watt of input energy per mm of PAR.
Similar comparisons could be made with other “high end” LEDs such as the BML, AI Hydra that do not daisy chain emitters and use better emitters to start with over the low cost, low output no name emitters used by Finnex.

Taking this comparison a step further, since the “raw” PAR data suggests 1/3 lower PAR for the same size 20″ inch Finnex compared to the 20″ 12 watt GroBeam #600, we also need to add in the loss of spectral quality via daisy chaining and low efficiency low cost emitters compared to the licensed CREE emitters, and this 1/3 lower output easily becomes 50% or more.
This means using a 24″ 20 gallon aquarium, you would need at least two 20″ 15 Watt Finnex lights to do the same job as one 20″ 12 watt AAP AquaRay GroBeam. So any up front savings really are not there for objective aquarium keepers

Based on the very poor warranty (180 days), lack of a good water resistance rating, and energy output efficiency, I can only recommend these lights for those seeking to save $20-$30 short term, this is assuming your planted aquarium could get by with less light from the Finnex and does not need two Finnex where one better LED would work).

Long term savings will quickly evaporate on these Finnex lights based on lifespan and energy usage for results achieved since it can easily be assumed from known PAR & PUR data that it it would take twice the input wattage of Finnex to equal the PAR/PUR output of the AAP/TMC AquaRay GroBeam.

Further Reading: PUR, PAS, PAR in Aquarium Reef/Planted Lighting

* Specifications-

* Spread-
120 degree

* Features-
Moonlight

* Mounting-
Rim Mount Included

* Power Usage-
9 to 36 watts depending upon size of fixture

* PAR-
40 µMol•m²•sec in air at 400mm for the 15 watt 20 inch models tested for this article

* Warranty-
180 Day, very limited

* Resources-
http://www.finnex.net/index.php/fugeray_series/?___store=default

* Coloration-

*Planted + 24/7

* Review-
For the full review of all Finnex LED lights in general, based on gathered data, see the review under the Finnex FugeRay

The thing that sets this fixture apart from the rest of the Finnex line is the season cycle, along with coloration control. The fixture focuses on use visual and feature appeal. The features have good reviews. Growth is moderate. Since the fixture has these features, which require dimming, they must be using 0-10v dimming.

* Specifications-

–Spectrum: [See Resource]
–Kelvin: 7,000K

* Circuity/Dimming-
0-10v Standard Dimming

* Features-
Fully Automated, hand free daylight and night cycle
Clouds, thunder, sun, and moon settings
4 different memory modes
4 Channels
Controller

* Mounting-
Rim Mount Included

* Power Usage-
15 to 36 watts depending upon size of fixture

* PAR-
40 µMol•m²•sec in air at 400mm for the 15 watt 20 inch models tested for this article

* Warranty-
180 day, very limited

* Resources-
http://www.finnex.net/index.php/plantedautomated/?___store=default

* Coloration-

*Finnex Ray 2 DS/DB/BB

* Review-
For the full review of all Finnex LED lights in general, based on gathered data, see the review under the Finnex FugeRay

This version of the Finnex comes in three different versions. There’s a daylight 7,000K, 10,000K, and 460nm marine actinic blue. These fixtures pride them self on a quality aluminum design, which helps heat escape from the emitter, through the fixture and out. One fixture, they compare to (3) T5 lamps. With a water slash guard type of len over all emitters. The lens can be removed for easy cleaning. The emitters are ceramic and not plastic.

These fixtures are not designed to dim, without any option to do so. There are no features listed for the unit.

* Specifications-

Ray 2 DS
Model Dimensions LED #LEDs Type Wattage
RAY2 16DS 16″x3.75×1(h) 7000k 88 3014 9w
RAY2 18DS 18″x3.75×1(h) 7000k 96 3014 15w
RAY2 24DS 24″x3.75×1(h) 7000k 144 3014 20w
RAY2 30DS 30″x3.75×1(h) 7000k 144 3014 20w
RAY2 36DS 36″x3.75×1(h) 7000k 192 3014 29w
RAY2 48DS 48″x3.75×1(h) 7000k 288 3014 39w

Ray 2 DB
Model Dimensions LED #LEDs Type Wattage
RAY2 16DB 16″x3.75×1(h) 10000k / Actinic 88 3014 9w
RAY2 18DB 18″x3.75×1(h) 10000k / Actinic 96 3014 15w
RAY2 24DB 24″x3.75×1(h) 10000k / Actinic 144 3014 20w
RAY2 30DB 30″x3.75×1(h) 10000k / Actinic 144 3014 20w
RAY2 36DB 36″x3.75×1(h) 10000k / Actinic 192 3014 29w
RAY2 48DB 48″x3.75×1(h) 10000k / Actinic 288 3014 39w

Ray 2 DB
Model Dimensions LED #LEDs Type Wattage
RAY2 24BB 24″x3.75×1(h) Actinic 144 3014 20w
RAY2 30BB 30″x3.75×1(h) Actinic 144 3014 20w
RAY2 36BB 36″x3.75×1(h) Actinic 192 3014 29w
RAY2 48BB 48″x3.75×1(h) Actinic 288 3014 39w

* Features-
N/A

* Mounting-
Rim Mount included

* Warranty-
180 day, very limited.

* Resources-
http://www.finnex.net/index.php/ray2_series/?___store=default

* Coloration-

*Fluval Fresh, Marine, Eco Bright, Aquasky, Desktop, Ultra Bright

* Review, including overall review of ALL Fluval Lights

The Fluval LEDs is a economy build that has evolved into a very nicely aesthetically designed line of LED aquarium lights.
Fluval also claims German engineered (but then so are Tetra brand fish foods)
Fluval has added IP67 waterproofing, which few LEDs other than AquaRay have had. As well the warranty at 3 years is one of the better warranties, with only the AquaRay line beating this with 5 years.

However, the Fluval still use multiple no-name low cost emitters that are daisy chained together, instead of fewer HO quality emitters run with appropriate drivers/circuitry such as the AI, AquaRay, and other premium LEDs.
It is well known that it is not cost efficient to drive high numbers of emitters with proper voltage, so daisy chaining is used for LEDs such as the fluval, Satellite, & Finnex. This results in lower spectral quality (PUR) and lower efficiency which shows in the low PAR and PUR output per input wattage. As well dimming is analog, which also lowers spectral quality.
Reference: Aquarium Lighting Facts & Information; LED Lights

An example would be the Fluval Fresh & Plant 2.0 A3990 which uses 32 watts of input energy with a PAR output about 70 µMol•m²•sec at 400mm. This is .45 watt of input energy per mm of PAR.
However the 30 Watt AquaRay GroBeam 1500 produces a PAR of about 150 µMol•m²•sec at 400mm using 30 watts input energy. This is .20 watt of input energy per mm of PAR!!
This does not even take into consideration the higher sprectral quality of tuned specific licensed Cree emitters controlled by PWM versus analog dimming.

Another way to think about it. The 32 watt Planted Fluval 2.0 rates about 70 µMol•m²•sec at 400mm for $135, where the AquaRay GroBeam 12 watt rates about 61 µMol•m²•sec at 400mm for $123. So, watt per dollar, you get a better value with the AquaRay, with less watts about the same PAR, all with the other perks of a patented solid build and a 5 year warranty. This doesn’t even take in account PUR and the amount of emitters used in each fixture, which if is taken into account, the AquaRay GroBeam would have more useful energy and cost less, with a more secure build.

Fluval also claims “high CRI” however we already know that this is not a parameter to consider for aquarium lighting and is a marketing strategy often employed by lights with less than adequate PUR since CRI is easy to achieve.
Reference: Aquarium Lighting Facts & Information; CRI

So it is easy to see that while a nice sleek fixture, the Fluval is still at heart a basic economy LED masquerading as a quality HO LED!

Fresh & Plant 2.0

* Specifications-

* Input/Output Energy-
–Watts: 32w-59w
–PAR: [See Specifications]
–Spectrum: Full Spectrum

–Kelvin: 7500K

* Circuity/Dimming-
0-10v Standard Analog Dimming

* Spread-
120 Degree

* Waterproof-
Waterproof IP67

* Features-
German-engineered
ultra-slim 1” profile
dimmable .touch switch
Can be mounted lower for less light loss
All lights on or only blue lights

* Mounting-
On frame
With a cabinet
Supension
Extendable

* Warranty-
3 Year Parts and Repair

* Resources-
Fluval Fresh & Plant 2.0

* Coloration-

————————————————————————————————————————————————————————-

Marine & Reef Performance LED

* Specifications-
[See Resource]

* Input/Output Energy-
–Watts: 25w-46w
–PAR: Not Specified
–Spectrum: Full Spectrum

–Kelvin:25000K

* Analog Circuity/Dimming-
Day & Night Mode

* Spread-
120 Degree

* Waterproof-
N/A

* Features-
6 unique LED Band Waves for maximum growth and colour

* Mounting-
With a cabinet
Supension
On frame
Extendable

* Warranty-
N/A

* Resources-
Fluval Marine & Reef

* Coloration-

—————————————————————————————————————————-

Eco Bright

* Specifications-
[See Resource]

* Input/Output Energy-
–Watts: 7w-18w
–PAR: Not Specified
–Spectrum: Not Specified
–Kelvin: 7500K

* Analog Circuity/Dimming-
0-10V Dimmer in 25% increments

* Spread-
120 Degree

* Waterproof-
N/A

* Features-
German Engineered
Natural Shimmering Effect
energy-efficient LED system
intelligent infrared remote control with presets
customize blue and white LED intensity
ultra-slim 1” platform
Daytime and Nighttime

* Mounting-
Extendable

* Warranty-
1 Year Parts and Repair

* Resources-
Fluval Eco Bright

* Coloration-

————————————————————————————————————————————————

Aquasky

* Specifications-
[See Resource]

* Input/Output Energy-
–Watts: 18w-35w
–PAR: N/A
–Spectrum: N/A
–Kelvin: 3000-25000K

* Analog Circuity/Dimming-
0-10V Dimming

* Spread-
120 Degree

* Waterproof-
Waterproof IP67

* Features-
German Engineered
endless color blends & multiple sky effects
Daytime & Nighttime
SKYpad infrared remote
Super bright 6500K white LEDs with tri-colored RGB (Red, Green, Blue) LEDs
Mount lower for no light loss
Ultra Slim Design

* Mounting-
extendable

* Warranty-
3 Year Parts and Repair

* Resources-
Fluval Aquasky

* Coloration-

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————-

Desktop (Nano) Series- Aura, Halo, Nano

* Specifications-

* Input/Output Energy-
–Watts: 12w-22w
–PAR: 32-762
–Spectrum:

–Kelvin:7500-25000K

* Circuity/Dimming-
0-10V Dimming- Halo and Aura models only
White/blue Control

* Spread-
120 Degree

* Waterproof-
Waterproof IP67

* Features-
German Engineered
C.O.B. (chip-on-board) technology
Mount lower for less light lose

* Mounting-
Adjustable Positioning Arm

* Warranty-
3 Year Parts and Repair

* Resources-
Fluval Desktop Series

* Coloration-
[See Spectrum}
——————————————————————————————————————————————–

Ultra Bright LED

* Specifications-
[See Resource]

* Input/Output Energy-

–Watts: 9w-32w
–PAR: N/A
–Spectrum: Full Spectrum

–Kelvin:7000K

* Circuity/Dimming-
N/A

* Spread-
120 Degree

* Waterproof-
N/A

* Features-
A shimmering effect is created
Can be used with deeper tanks
Solid aluminum housing
Compact and lightweight
Daytime and Nighttime

* Mounting-
extendable

* Warranty-
N/A

* Resources-
Fluval Ultra Bright

* Coloration-
N/A

*Zetlight Qmaven/Maxspect R420R/TMC V2 iLumenAir

* Review- Maxspect, iLumenAir, Zetlight
Maxspect Razor, TMC V2 iLumenAir, are all based on the same general basic build as the Zetlight Qmaven.

Made in Honk Kong. Zetlight reserves some of its technology ONLY for their name brand line and iLumenAir such as the smart fan and better emitters.

Zetlight also has other LED models, not reviewed in this article at this time. (Mini Aquarium Series, Nano Aquarium Series, Aqua Aquarium Series, Pro Aquarium Series, Project Aquarium Series, IOZEAN Aquarium Series, Lancia Aquarium Series, and Shieldo Aquarium Series).

The use of cooling fans implies that the Zetlight Qmaven, Maxspect R420R, & TMC V2 iLumenAir all use 0-10V “Current Reduction” versus the superior PWM to control the emitters.
See: Aquarium LED Lighting- PWM

The negatives again are the LACK of energy conserving, light efficient PWM controller technology, less than desirable PUR due to the many colored LEDs, and less than optimum PUR efficient emitters.

Part of the problem is the use of warm white and cool white emitters, such as the Cree XPG 3000k warm white, which is not an emitter best used for aquatic applications.

The Maxspect has the least amount of features compaired to the others.

This said, these are nice LED fixtures for those desiring a good light for coloration of their reef specimens where an efficient lower wattage per PUR/PAS fixture is not important. These are clearly not the best as per the known science of aquarium lighting, but are certainly reef capable at albeit a higher cost of operation (and higher carbon footprint), as well as shorter useful product lifespan.

Zetlight Qmaven ZT6500

* Specifications-
Emitter Type: Bridgelux & Cree

2 x Daylight: (12000K) 35 Watt super daylight chips
20 x Royal Blue 3w (450-465nm)
4 x Blue LED 3w (465-485nm) (Cree XT-E)
6 x Violet LED 3w (410-420nm)
3 x Green LED 3w (520-535nm)
3 x Red LED 3w (620-630nm)
2 x Orange/Amber 3w LED (610-620nm)

* Input/Output Energy
90 Watt, 1 fan

PSU Input: 100-240V

PSU Output: N/A

–PAR: 200-300 @ 8 inch of water [See Spread]
–Spectrum: [See Resource]
–Kelvin: [See Resource]

* Circuity/Dimming-
Dimming capable. 0-10 V
No more info on Circuity

* Spread- [See Resource]

* Waterproof- N/A

* Features-
Designed to be primarily cooled passively, the body is entirely in aluminum, serving as a large heat sink. With the aerodynamic design, cool air is brought through the bottom of the fixture and heat will be dissipated through the aluminum chassis. With a built-in temperature controlled system, with active cooling.
Simulate dawn, sunrise, sunset & nighttime
Toughen transparent len cover. Holds back humidity
Water Resistant Connector Plug
Digital Screen Display
Infra Red Controller

* Mounting-
Slide out mount, with lock

* Warranty- 1 year

* Resources-
http://zetlight.com/index.php/products?id=74

Apex option:

* Coloration-

—
Maxspect R420R

* Specifications-
Emitter Type: Cree & Epliles

M10000 (10,000K)
12 x Cree XT-E Cool White 8000 Daylight emitters
6 x Cree XT-E Warm White 3000 Daylight emitters
9 x Cree XP-E Blue (465-485nm)
6 x Cree XT-E Royal Blue (450-465nm)
6 x Eplileds Dual Core Violet (410-420nm)

M16000 (16,000K)
6 x Cree XT-E Cool White 8000 Daylight emitters
12 x Cree XT-E Royal Blue (450-465nm)
6 x Cree XT-E Warm White 3000 Daylight emitters
9 x Cree XP-E Blue (465-485nm)
6 x Eplileds Dual Core Violet (410-420nm)

A8000 (8000K)
6 x Cree XT-E Cool White 8000 Daylight emitters
4 x Cree XT-E Warm White 3000 Daylight emitters
3 x Cree XP-E Blue (465-485nm)

* Input/Output Energy
Meanwell NES-75-15 (60w)
Meanwell NES-150-24 (120w)
Meanwell NES-200-36 (160w) (actual output 117 watt)

PSU Input:
1.5A/115VAC – 0.9A/230VAC (60w)
4.5A/115VAC – 2.5A/230VAC (160w/120w)

PSU Output:
15V 5A (60w)
24V 6.3A (120w)
36V 5.9A (160w)

–PAR: 100-300, 24 inch water [See Spread]
–Spectrum: [See Resource]
–Kelvin: N/A

* Circuity/Dimming-
Dimming capable. 0-10 V
No more info on Circuity

* Spread- [See Resource]

* Waterproof- N/A

* Features-
Smart Fan
Simulate dawn, sunrise, sunset & nighttime

* Mounting- Slide out mount

* Warranty- 1 Year

* Resources-
http://www.maxspectusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=20&Itemid=21

* Coloration-

264g reef tank with 4 LED Maxspect Razor R420R 120W 16,000K

—
TMC V2 iLumenAir

* Specifications-
Emitter Type: Bridgelux

V2 iLumen Air 600
1 x 35W (6500K) diode
12 x 3W Royal Blue (465nm)
8 x 3W Red (620-630NM)

V2 iLumen Air 900
2 x 35W (6500K) diodes
24 x 3W Royal Blue (465nm)
3 x 3W Red (640nm)
3 x 3W Green (530nm)
2 x 3W Amber(605nm)

V2 iLumen Air 1200
2 x 45w (12000k) diodes
30 x 3w Royal Blue (465nm)
6x 2w Red (640nm)
6 x 3w Green (530nm)
2 x 3w Amber (605 mn)

* Input/Output Energy
Air 600- 80 Watt, 1 fan
Air 900- 170 Watt, 2 fan
Air 1200- 215 Watt, 2 fan

PSU Input: N/A
PSU Output: N/A

–PAR: 100-400, 17 inch water [See Spread]
–Spectrum: [See Resource]
–Kelvin: N/A

* Circuity/Dimming-
Dimming capable. 0-10 V
No more info on Circuity

* Spread- [See Resource]

* Waterproof- N/A

* Features-
Designed to be primarily cooled passively, the body is entirely in aluminum, serving as a large heat sink. With the aerodynamic design, cool air is brought through the bottom of the fixture and heat will be dissipated through the aluminum chassis. With a built-in temperature controlled system, with active cooling.
Waterproof cable connections
Infra Red Controller
90 degree lens optics
Simulate dawn, sunrise, sunset & nighttime
Thermal cut out to protect the LED’s should overheating occur
Controllable blue LED trim to enhance
Power read out indicates electricity use

* Mounting-
Adjustable tank mounted (fittings included) or suspended (kit sold separately)

* Warranty- 1 Year

* Resources (To purchase)-
V2 iLumenAir (ZetLight)

* Coloration-

BC Aquaria Maxspect

*Maxspect Mazarra

* Review-
The use of cooling fans implies that the Maxspect Mazarra use 0-10V “Current Reduction” versus the superior PWM to control the emitters.
See: Aquarium LED Lighting- PWM

The Maxspect Mazarra lighting system is one the first LED systems on the market to utilize the 410/420nm Super Actinic LED chips (violet). Maxspect claims this spectrum is crucial for the success of any reef and water plant aquariums as it is required by Chlorophyll A for photosynthesis, where absorption peaks at 412nm.

While this claim is not fully substantiated, there is evidence that SOME corals need this spectrum for proper growth. However, little evidence exists that this spectrum is needed for freshwater aquarium plant growth.

Other fixtures do have this color of emitter as well.

* Specifications-
Emitter Type: Cree, Philips, Epileds

Mazarra- P Series
4 x Cree XM-L Cool White 7000-8000
4 x Philips Luxeon Rebel 460-490 Blue
4 x Philips Luxeon Rebel 440-460 Royal Blue
1 x Epileds Dual-Core 400-410 Super Actinic
1 x Epileds Dual-Core 410-420 Super Actinic
2 x Cree XP-G 3000K Warm White

(XM-L Cool White bin is actually 5500K!! Based on Crees own data)

Mazarra- X Series
4 x Cree XB-D Cool White 7500
2 x Epileds Dual-Core 410-420 Super Actinic
2 x Cree XB-D Warm White 4000
4 x Cree XP-E 465-485 Blue
4 x Cree XP-E 450-465 Blue

* Input/Output Energy
P Series:
PSU Input- 4.5A/115VAC – 2.5A/230VAC
PSU Output- 14A

X Series:
PSU Input- 4.5A/115VAC – 2.5A/230VAC
PSU Output- 36V 5.9A

Watts: 110w

–PAR:
P Series: [See Resource per lens]
X Series: [See Resource per lens]

–Spectrum:
The spectrogram is missing some important points of PUR and full spectrum PAR. Not to say this is not a good spectrogram, only that it could be better.
[See Resource]

See: PUR vs PAR in Aquarium Lighting- Including Spectrographs
OR: “Useful Light Energy- PUR”

–Kelvin:
P-Series: N/A
X-Series: N/A

* Circuity/Dimming-
Dimming capable. 0-10 V
No more info on Circuity

* Spread- [See Resources]

* Waterproof- N/A

* Features-
The Mazarra-X Lighting system can be connected to PC through USB, allowing users to update firmware easily through the USB connection. Upcoming Maxspect Computer Control program will also allow users to program photo-period profile directly from the PC and upload the profile onto the master module.

Wireless Controller
Modularized Units
Weather Mode. Dawn/Dusk Mode
Master/slave mode, which can control up to 16 units
6 Photo-Period Time Point
Aerodynamic design
Versatile Mounting System
Selection of 40°, 70° and 100° optics

* Mounting-

Nice adjustable mount design

* Warranty- 1 Year

* Resources-
Maxspect Mazarra P-Series
Maxspect Mazarra X-Series

* Coloration-

Maxspect Mazarra par Aquarioom

*AAP AquaRay AquaBeam/AquaGro- 2000 Reef White, 1500 Ocean Blue, 1500 GroBeam & Colour Plus Tiles

Review:
The AAP/TMC AquaRay is one of the leaders in both Reef and Planted freshwater aquarium LED lighting [especially in Europe], with 11 different module fixtures to mix and match depending on species being kept and aquarium specification. Their PAR/PUR efficiency and warranty is unrivaled which is why in part, I use the AquaRay as the standard to measure all other aquarium LED lights by, despite the mass marketing of many others that has allowed many others to become more household names.
Emitters are fully licensed or patented, meaning no other fixtures have these emitters.
They also have an exceptional 5 year warranty to back them up, which is far longer than most all other aquarium LEDs.

Another aspect I like about the TMC AquaRay line of LED lights is their patented mounting system that is like not other LED with vastly more mounting options than any other aquarium LED light, advanced or economy.

Based on the known science of aquarium lighting, what sets their LED Light fixtures apart are these factors:

The licensed Cree and patented innovative Osram Oslon emitters, which no other fixtures have for the highest PUR output at the lowest watts.

Instead of warm white or cool white emitters, the AAP AquaBeam/AquaGro LEDs use more reef or planted freshwater friendly kelvin temperature emitters.
These emitters are also aquarium specific meaning they are meant to be used in a more wet environment and can handle larger voltage swings, due to long term exposure to moisture. In fact, the AquaRay LEDs have a water resistant design of IP67. This is the highest level of protection, no other Aquarium LED has this rating.

TMC uses precise drivers/circuitry to power each emitter, so as to maintain spectral quality. Unlike other LEDs, which daisy chain their emitters together. Almost like chaining Christmas lights together. Other good/excellent “High End” LEDs such as Aqua Illuminations, EcoTech, V2 iLumenAir/Maxspect, and Kessil do not daisy chain their emitters either.

The AquaRay line of LEDs ARE THE MOST EFFICIENT aquarium LED as per input energy to PAR using 400m as a measurement. This is worthy of note that even leaving out the longevity, warranty, and highest PUR, the simple measurement of PAR shows that where two or more of one fixture might be needed, only one Aquaray might be needed.
The watt per micro-mol of PAR ranges from .08 watt to .20 watt per mm of PAR for Aquaray LED fixtures.
Other LEDs such as the Beamworks are as high as 2.7 watts per mm of PAR!

The ONLY Professional Full Service Online Product Resource in North America:
AquaRay Lighting
Beware of posers selling this product with names that imply official and experience, as neither is true.
The above link is the ONLY North American online seller with a decade of experience selling this product and decades of professional lighting experience behind it.
In fact in investigating further, I found that a certain parasite garage retailer now has two deceptive web sites shadowing each other selling the Aquaray and unfortunately Google Search rewards this “black hat” SEO with top billing!
Do not make the mistake of purchasing from a garage seller!
—

* Specifications-
Emitter Type: Cree & Osram Oslon

30 watt AquaBeam Reef White 2000
4 x 10,000K extremely high output NEW patented Cree XT-E -Focused Lens
2 x “Fiji Blue” Cree XT-E (deep blue) -Focused Lens
4 x NP (Nature Perfect) Osram Oslon full spectrum Blue -Focused Lens. (18,000k) with a correlated color temperature of 20,000K.

30 watt AquaBeam Ocean Blue 1500
4 x 10,000K extremely high output NEW patented Cree XT-E
2 x “Fiji Blue” Cree XT-E (deep blue)
4 x NP (Nature Perfect) Osram Oslon full spectrum Blue. (18,000k) with a correlated color temperature of 20,000K.

30 watt AquaBeam Coral Colour Plus 1500
2 x 10,000K extremely high output NEW patented Cree XT-E
2 x “Fiji Blue” Cree XT-E (deep blue)
2 x NP (Nature Perfect) Osram Oslon full spectrum Blue. (18,000k) with a correlated color temperature of 20,000K.
2 x Semi NUV emitters
1 x Cree Red Emitter

ABOVE: Reef Aquarium with New Coral Colour Plus added to Maxspect, within two weeks, Montipora & other sps growth was noticeably improved

30 watt AquaGro GroBeam 1500
10 x Cree XB-D 6500K

ABOVE: Aquascape with AquaGro Grobeam 1500 Daylight

30 watt AquaGro Colour (Color) Plus
4 x Cree XP-G 6500K daylight white
2 x Cree XP-E green
2 x Cree XP-E red
2 x Cree XP-E blue

* Input/Output Energy [See Resource]
–PAR:
–Spectrum:
–Kelvin:

* Circuity/Dimming-
Pulse with Modulation, separate controller

* Spread- [See Resource]

* Waterproof- IP67 Proof

* Features-
-Controller for Features (separate)
Multi channel
Ramp/dim, Sunrise, Sunset, moonlight
Wifi Compatible/PC Control Panel
Storm/30 day lunar cycle
Temperature probe
Slave Mode

* Mounting-
In-hood (provided), Modular, Suspended

* Warranty- 5 Year Registered

* Further Resources/Information-

Reef White 2000
AAP Reef White 2000 Specifications

Ocean Blue/Coral Colour Plus 1500
AAP Ocean Blue 1500 Specifications

GroBeam 1500/Color Plus
AAP GroBeam 1500 Color Plus Specifications

Purchase Aquarium LED Lighting; What to Know

AAP/TMC AquaBeam/AquaGro

A 75 gallon planted with two GroBeam earlier generation LED tiles is pictured to the left.

Below is snip of a large reef aquarium utilizing AquaBeam Reef White 2000s & Ocean Blue 1500s.

AAP/TMC AquaBeam/AquaGro- 600 Ultima Strips, Mini 400 & 500:

* Specifications-
Emitter Type: Cree

12 watt Marine White 600
14,000K
6 x 9K Cree ML-E Daylight
2 x Cree ML-E Reef Blue

12 watt Reef White 600
18,000K
4 x 9K Cree ML-E Daylight
4 x Cree ML-E Reef Blue

12 watt Marine Blue 600
20,000K
2 x 9K Cree ML-E Daylight
6 x ML-E Reef Blue

12 watt Reef Blue 600
465nm
8 x Cree ML-E Reef Blue

12 watt Fiji Blue 600
450nm
5 x Cree XT-E Blue

12 watt GroBeam 600
5 x 6500K Daylight XB-D

12 watt MiniLED 500
4 x Cree licensed XP-E 10,000K- focused lensed
1 x Cree XP-E 465nm Blue
NOTE: designed for small Nano Reef Tanks under 15 gallons, although multiples work quite well for larger aquariums where the “square” light spread might be desirable over multiple strips (the picture displays this light with a “MountaRay” bracket for easy attachment to small tanks).

12 watt AquaHabitats Mini 400

4 x Osram Oslon SSL High Power 6500K
The Mini 400 uses four new high output OSRAM OSLON SSL High Power 6500K LED Emitters.

12 watt AquaBeam NUV
5 x Cree Near Ultra violet

* Input/Output Energy [See Resource]
–PAR:
–Spectrum:
–Kelvin:

* Circuity/Dimming-
Pulse with Modulation (PWM), separate controller

* Spread- [See Resource]

* Waterproof- IP67 Proof

* Features-
-Controller for Features (separate)
Multi channel
Ramp/dim, Sunrise, Sunset, moonlight
Wifi Compatible/PC Control Panel
Storm/30 day lunar cycle
Temperature probe
Salve Mode

* Mounting-
In-hood (provided), Modular, Suspended

* Warranty- 5 Year Registered

* Resources-
TMC Marine Reef White Blue Specifications

TMC Fiji Reef Blue Spectrum

TMC AquaBeam/AquaGro

FURTHER REVIEW:

The AquaRay LEDs apply latest technology to controllers, which dim and brighten an LED fixture. As a controller best maintains the spectral output via pulse width modulation (PWM).
The importance of PWM is this technology is effectively turning the LEDs on and off very quickly (faster than the eye can see) so there’s no change to the spectral output as opposed to using 0-10v dimmer used by many brands of LED fixtures and LED Controllers.

This is what really sets the TMC AquaRay apart from others, since there’s little heat loss with PWM compared to other methods. This is also for long-term security of the emitters, as over time with a moist environment, spectrums and emitters can start to degrade.

The AAP AquaRays do not have fans, which is a large plus considering the life of the fan will never last as long as the emitters are rated for.
With less heat, these means more energy is being used as light and less watts of energy are being used. This also helps makes the fixture completely IP67 waterproof.

Probably the only downside to this technology is the complexity of the circuitry and it does come with a price. A separate controller is needed. AquaRay chooses to keep their dimmer separate, as not everyone needs it and the fixtures can simply be raised and lowered or a good grounded timer can also be used [which is what most persons used until LEDs became practical].

A higher pitch sound also has been reported with PWM dimming, but is something not noticeable unless someone is specifically listening for it and can’t hear it over other sounds of the aquarium. It is also worthy of note that other Aquarium LEDs use fans, which make their own noise and often breakdown prematurely, so this is a draw here.

Other complaints are that the TMC controllers are not as user friendly, although their new Smart Controller 8 with new features certainly voids this issue, at least in part. Now the new controller has more user features not even found with other common fixtures. Either way the use of PWM and lower heat loss resulting in more light overrides these issues in my experience/opinion as well as with interviews with aquarium keeping professionals.

See Reference: Aquarium LED Lighting- PWM

The result of these industry leading technologies as well as not going with the gimmicky, yet popular multiple color emitters such as green/yellow/orange emitters [with the exception of the Colour Plus], these TMC AquaBeam & AquaGro GroBeam have the highest PUR output for the lowest wattage input, often by a very wide margin.

Further Specific TMC AquaBeam/GroBeam Information

The excellent TMC 1000 Ultra has been replaced as of August of 2013 with the AquaBeam 2000 NP Ultima.

Pictured below is a Reef White 2000 NP Ultima and 600 Ultima NUV LEDs over a 60 Gallon Reef Aquarium

See this separate review of the 1500 & 2000 Ultimas:
*TMC AquaBeam Ocean Blue 1500 NP Review
*TMC AquaBeam Reef White 2000 NP Review

The new 1500 & 2000 LED combines the exclusive and licensed Cree 10000K XT-E daylight emitters with the high output XT-E Fiji Blue.
Even more impressive is the TMC Ocean Blue NP 1500 & Reef White NP 2000 includes the patented innovative NP Blue Osram Oslon emitter which is specifically designed for photosynthetic reef life, providing a blue light, which still is full spectrum.

It provides the growing power of 20K, while having a 16K appearance. This is a higher level tech emitter, not available in any other aquarium fixture.

The picture below shows the spectrum of the Osram Olson ‘Natural Blue’ or ‘Nature Prefect’ (NP) emitter:

As well these TMC fixtures, continue to use advanced driver technology, which does not waste nearly as much heat energy as other comparable LED fixtures. Instead, much more energy goes to actually lighting your aquarium.

The TMC Ocean Blue NP 1500 is an excellent choice for aquarium keepers with tanks under 22 inches of depth desiring a very high output blue and daylight light combinations from a small footprint yet high output (high PUR) aquarium LED.

Here are some important points as to what the NP 1500 series LED lights can and cannot do:

This is not a depth penetrating LED fixture despite its plethora of excellent blue emitters, this is due to the fact it is not focused unlike the TMC Reef White NP 2000. However these two fixtures can be combined 1 to 1 for tanks with 24-32 inches of water depth.
NP 1500 has a much larger area of light output from the same small foot print of the 2000 tiles.
The NP 1500 with a beam angle of 120 degrees has a 24 x 24 inch light spread, with fixture at optimum 8-12 inches above tank. While the light spread is about 18 x 18 for the 2000 Ultimas, which have a 60 degree beam angle.

It is also noteworthy, the combined emitters used in the NP 1500 have a higher PUR in proportion to the testable PAR (PUR is the actual useful light energy).

Below is a video with a reef aquarium using AquaRay Ocean Blue NP 1500 LEDs

Reef Aquarium with Ultima NP LEDs Video

—

The 2000 tiles are still the most focused best depth penetrating (albeit with the lowest light spread) of all TMC AquaRay lights and quite bluntly MOST any other aquarium LED but for the Orphek & Kessil!

This makes the AquaBeam 2000 LEDs the best choice (as per TMC products) for tanks over 20-24″ in depth including deeper hexagon or similar reef aquariums.

As noted earlier with the 1500 NP Ocean Blue, this LED uses the exact same emitters, but with lenses producing a much smaller 60 degree cone of light with much more depth penetration.

The TMC 600 models are excellent as stand alone LED fixtures or as compliments to the 2000 and even 1500 models so as to add light spread in larger deep tanks.

See this review of the 600 Ultima:
*New TMC AquaBeam 600 Ultima Aquarium LED Light

TMC also now utilizes the newest licensed XT-E Deep Blue 450nm un-lensed emitters in their AquaBeam Fiji Blue Fixture (pictured above), which is an excellent compliment to the Marine White or even the AquaBeam Reef Blue for a very nice full blue spectrum, specifically for enhancing the fluorecence of corals. Notwithstanding, the EcoTech Radion does a nice job here too mixing blues.

While I personally have found this an excellent new offering from TMC the moonlight mode somewhat a gimmick based on known facts about moon light and its affect on corals, etc. However, TMC is simply bowing to customer demands here.
Please Reference: Aquarium Moon Lights Review

Also see this review of the 400 from Aquarist Magazine:
TMC Aquaray Mini LED 400 Aquarium Light Tile Review

Also see LED Aquarium Lights & Lighting for further LED information and as well for further information about the TMC AquaBeam 600 and 1000 Ultras.

—

Update 6-21-12
TMC had a failure of their quality control for the Ocean White 1500 in that CRee sent cool white emitters (those used by EcoExotic at the time) instead of the patented 9000-10000k XP-G emitters. These were installed in a few runs in the spring of 2012.
The fixtures in question have these numbers on the box side:
11-10-43-04
12-04-17-03

It is noteworthy, this mistake was caught by a couple of customers with a good knowledge of what a quality LED should produce in light energy and they noticed the difference from other TMC LEDs since these non licensed Cree cool white binned emitters used by most other LED manufacturers produce a more yellow, lower quality PUR light..

Here is an excellent newer website documenting the LED research at Saint Mary’s College of Maryland by Dr. Walter Hatch, THIS IS A MUST READ!

St Mary’s Marine Biology Experiments

*TMC Aqua Red/Blue Flexi-LED & Truelumen (by Current):

* Review-
These products are primarily decorative and are mostly useless for lighting an aquarium as per the necessary light energy, especially needed by freshwater plants or symbiotic zooanthellic algae found in many corals, clams, & nudibranchs.
That said, TMC is not marketing this product for anything other than minor supplemental or decorative lighting.

As an example, the Flexi-Red only provides subtle highlights of red (which might be great for some freshwater tetras, discus, etc.), however at night by itself this Flexi Red LED does add an interesting effect in the aquarium.

The Flexi-Red Strips are excellent for use with nocturnal fish such as Blennies, as many nocturnal fish are active with low level red lighting present in their aquarium. As well as a supplemental light, the Flexi-Red can be added to planted aquariums to add a small amount of additional near-infrared red light energy for plants such as Rotala.

The blue strips are excellent for use as a moon light for those who prefer a blue color for night lighting, notwithstanding that moon light is not actually blue, but this is the color most persons seem to prefer regardless.
Reference: Aquarium Moon Lights Review- Is Moonlite truly Blue

The TrueLumen by Current USA is similar, however it is unfortunately marketed by many as a main light source, while as with the TMC Flexi-Red the TrueLumen is only for supplementation.

The Kelvin Color temperatures (other than the Rose, Rose/White) are primarily for marine aquarium supplementation.

Both these products are nice ideas when properly used with the TMC available in 18 inch strips and the TrueLumen available in 10 inch strips.
Both are very easy to install with the TrueLumen available in more varieties while the TMC is a better value (due to a considerably longer strips for only a marginal amount of $ more).

* Input/Output Energy
PSU Input:100-240V 50/60HZ
PSU Output: 12 C DC 0.8 max

3 Watts

* Circuity/Dimming-
Dimming capable. 0-10 V

* Waterproof- N/A

* Mounting-
Stick on back

* Warranty- 2 Year

* Resources-
TMC Flex Red/Blue Adhesive LED Aquarium Lighting

* Coloration-

*TMC AquaBar LED:

* Review-
This is a new offering by TMC that is made to TMC specification in China with 6500k White Samsung LED emitters instead of the patented Cree & Osram Olson Emitters supplied with their premium AquaBeam and GroBeam line of LED Lights.

Update: The AquaBar has been taken off the aquarium LED market.

*Aqua Illumination SOL:

* Review-
The Aqua Illumination SOL Aquarium LEDs use good quality, albeit older generation Cree XP-G 6500K and blue/royal blue XP-E series LEDs (AI does NOT have the license “rights” to the latest CRee emitters). The lenses and over all design is top notch.
The driver/circuitry is well designed as there is less heat generating heat spikes than some other LEDs using Current Reduction.

These LED fixtures are marketed more on features, rather the important: Useful Light Energy (PUR), NOT PAR only as some reviews may claim.
Please reference: Aquarium Lighting- Useful Light Energy, PUR.

This said, the AI Sol LEDs have interesting and admittedly cool features include proprietary 40 and 70 degree lenses and feature rich controllers that do an excellent job of getting light where it is needed.

The Aqua Illuminations LEDs are capable LED lights for many light reef applications with many reporting reasonable results.

This LED is essentially an older version 6500K planted freshwater light with good saltwater depth penetration of maybe 12″, combined with an excellent, but older binned (non patented) version XP-E blue CRee emitters, which are good for aquarium applications under 20 inches. Not for deeper tanks as many unaware reef keeper have used these LED fixtures for.

While the Aqua Illumination SOL is a good and capable LED light for many reef aquariums, at the price charged for this LED light fixture, there’s little reason to pay more, use more electricity, and get less.

Known facts about the emitters used in the AI Sol, this is still a good choice for reef tanks under 20 inches of depth.

This fixture has been discounted by the manufacture.

* Specifications-

Here is a break down of the popular AI Sol Super Blue:
Daylight:
Quantity: 8
Cree: XPG, 6500K
Blue:
Quantity: 8
Cree: XPE, 470nm
Royal Blue:
Quantity: 8

* Coloration-
Pictured to the left is an aquarium with the AI Sol Super Blue

*Aqua Illumination Vega:

* Review-
This is a really clever & unique concept as per the controller.

Here is a quote from Aqua Illumination’s website:
“With built-in wireless control capabilities you can connect wirelessly to the New Controller or upcoming Director platform with ease and freedom”

One of the most innovative controllers that is chock full of features, including the future “Director”!

The obvious negatives is that while this is an LED light fixture, which is feature rich with lots of bells & whistles, it still lacks where it counts in Useful Light Energy!

Note that while this is one of the better spectrographs demonstrating PUR compared to many aquarium LED fixtures offerings, which is why this is one of the better LED fixtures, one has to question the use of the generic cool white emitters, which can be shown to have more wasted light energy in the middle spectrum as well as the use of less efficient green emitters.

This equals as much as 30% of wattage input goes as light energy OUTSIDE of optimum PUR!!!

* Specifications-

Vega Color

4 – Cree XM-L Cool White
4 – Cree XP-E Royal Blue
4 – Cree XP-E Blue
4 – OSRAM OSLON Deep Blue
2 – Cree XP-E Green
2 – OSRAM OSLON Deep Red

Vega Blue

4 – Cree XM-L Cool White
8 – Cree XP-E Royal Blue
4 – Cree XP-E Blue
4 – OSRAM OSLON Deep Blue

–Spectrum:

This fixture has be discounted from the manufacture.

*Aqua Illumination Hydra FiftyTwo/TwentySix HD (Hyper Drive):

* Review-
This is one of Aqua Illuminations newer offerings.
A nicely made and excellent “high end” LED fixture that steps up from previous offerings with this 90 & 135 Watt LED Fixture.

This Hydra Fifty-Two and TwentySix new HD has a very eye pleasing color balance, which along their sleek design and balanced 80 degree optics with 90% optical efficiency are their main selling points.
This includes the Osram Oslon Deep Red emitters which do a nice job balancing the many blue emitters.

Nice FULL feature light color control, quoting Aqua Illuminations: “With traditional LED lighting, there is a fixed total amount of power per color you can utilize to power your LEDs. With the Hydra HD Series from AI we’re unleashing your LEDs’ full potential by giving back control of the power to you”.

The Hydra HDs have built-in WiFi control with AiFi Technology with no separate controller needed. Your Smart Phone iOS, Android, or computer browser control functions – Each press will change the intensity by 20%.
This feature is both a positive and negative depending upon your point of view, as this is definitely not a plug and play LED, as you need to sync your wireless computer or Smart phone before you can even run the light at all, however many might find this feature very practical [I personally prefer a separate controller such as with the iLumenAir/ZetLight or one that can ALSO be synced with your computer/Smart Phone such as the TMC AquaRay].

These new HD Hydras can be run up to 90 watts for the Twenty-Six (135 watts for the Fifty-Two). With the HD Hydras, you can turn down one color and hydper drive another at more than 100% up to the maximum wattage. As a comparison, the iLumenAir/ZetLight/Maxspect when turned down on a certain color, these cannot be brought up in another color over 100%.
As an example, some of the blues can be turned down and then run more of the red colors for a planted freshwater aquarium at more than 100%.

Below is a screen shot of how the controller feature appears on a PC computer:

The compact size is also very nice at only 7.28 in. by 5.375 in. for the Twenty-Six HD.
This can allow for placing of many of the Twenty-Six HDs [my preference over the Fifty-Two] in a small space which is a major plus for those who like to over drive their planted or reef aquarium.

A few minor negatives:

The wireless controlling features are also nice, although lacking of more efficient heat loss reducing PWM, hence the need for a fan.
These LED fixtures still use “binned” Cree XP-G2 Cool White LED emitters, which is inferior aquarium lighting PUR/PAS, as it has lower kelvin color temperature rating than is considered best for marine reef lighting.
The LED uses green emitters, which while these are nice for color, these also considerably lower the important PUR & PAS output.
I also question the use of 400 nm emitters as while these may look nice, I do know from others use of UVA lights, that some burning of corals has occurred (No evidence that this will occur with these LED lights). There is little evidence these 400nm emitters provide much if any useful PAS to corals.
The new unique “Hyper Drive” feature that uses software to over drive emitters with left over voltage from emitters “turned down” is something that over time will damage emitters as per the known aspects of voltage tolerances within emitters; hence the one year warranty.
So while a very cool/desirable feature, this feature also has its definite down side.
The Hydra HD are not really “Plug & Play” from the aspect that no real mounting hardware is included. So you either have to DIY in mounting or buy extra parts [actually DIY mounting is not that difficult for this fixture if reasonably handy].

When all is considered, including price, the AI Hydra HDs definitely rank among the best of the high-end aquarium LED fixtures and for those who might want to over-drive their planted or reef aquarium, this would probably be my first choice of any current LED fixture.

However for most high end users desiring more “normal” reef or planted aquariums, but desiring what I would still consider more gimmicky feature of driving specific colored emitters at different levels, the iLumenAir/ZetLight would be my choice [the iLumenAir/ZetLight is also is much more of a plug and play fixture and includes very practical mounting hardware].
For those who want a simple proven, pre-tuned LED, with high PUR and output light for input energy, PWM, the longest warranty including more specific pre-tuned light choices; whether it be for their fish, high light planted or reef aquarium that includes some basic mounting hardware, my choice is the AAP AquaRay Lighting line.

* Specifications-

AI Hydra FiftyTwo:
12 – Cree XP-G2 Cool White (> 70 CRI)
12 – Cree XT-E Royal Blue
12 – Cree XP-E2 Blue
4 – OSRAM OSLON Deep Red
4 – Cree XP-E2 Green
4 – SemiLED 415nm
4 – SemiLED 400nm

The Aqua Illuminations TwentySix is similar to the FiftySix except with half of the same emitters.

AI Hydra TwentySix:
6 – Cree XP-G2 Cool White (> 70 CRI)
6 – Cree XT-E Royal Blue
6 – Cree XP-E2 Blue
2 – OSRAM OSLON Deep Red
2 – Cree XP-E2 Green
2 – SemiLED 415nm
2 – SemiLED 400nm

* Input/Output Energy

FiftyTwo:
PSU Input- 100 to 240VAC / 50-60Hz
PSU Output-

135 Watt

TwentySix:
PSU Input- 100 to 240VAC / 50-60Hz
PSU Output-

90 Watt

–PAR: peak PAR of 304 µMol [See Resource]

–Spectrum:
Here’s the excellent, but not optimal in my opinion spectrogram for both AI LED Fixtures run at 100% on all emitters:

–Kelvin: [See Resource]

* Circuity/Dimming-
Dimming capable. 0-10 V

* Spread- [See Resource]

* Waterproof- N/A

* Features-
Greater PAR
Multi Channel
Built-in Wi-Fi, wireless controller. Smart phone or computer

* Mounting- None, extra purchase but still DIY mounting not too difficult

* Warranty-
1 Year (with certain sellers in the UK providing a 2 year warranty at their expense) w/ Register

* Resources-
AI Hydra Series LED

* Coloration-

AIHD1

Reef Builder-AI Review

Below is a video reviewing the AI HD

AI HD Review

To purchase:
Aqua Illuminations Hydra Twenty Six HD

References:
*0-10V Current Reduction Versus Pulse Width Modulation
*PUR versus PAR in Aquarium Lighting

*Aqua Illumination Prime:

* Review-
Newest in the AI line up. A “one fixture to rule them all”. Coming in at 50 watts, with some nice user features like the newest wi-fi controller. Color control for appearance of one’s choosing.

The wireless controller does imply 0-10v dimming along will more color emitters added up to make the overall spectrum.

* Specifications-

4 – Cree XP-G2 Cool White (> 70 CRI)
1 – OSRAM OSLON Deep Red
1 – Cree XP-E2 Green
3 – Cree XP-E2 Blue
2 – OSRAM SQUARE Deep Blue
1 – SemiLED 415nm Violet
1 – SemiLED 405nm UV

* Input/Output Energy

PSU Input- 100 to 240VAC / 50-60Hz
PSU Output-

50 Watts

–PAR: 260 uMol at 12 inch [See Resource]
–Spectrum: [See Resource]
–Kelvin: [See Resource]

* Circuity/Dimming-
Dimming capable. 0-10 V

* Spread- [See Resource]

* Waterproof- N/A

* Features-
Built-in Wi-Fi
Slave mode

* Mounting-
Rim or rimless ball valve adjustable mount

* Warranty- 1 Year w/ Register

* Resources-
AI Prime

* Coloration-

My Salty Reef AI Prime

*Current Satellite Freshwater + LED:

* Review-
The Current Satellite Freshwater LED is a relatively new LED sold primarily at discounters such as Amazon or Petco and is quite frankly typical of LED lights sold at discounters in, which it is full of features that appeal to those with little knowledge of aquarium lighting, but are easily marketed to by “bells & whistles”.

The fact these lights get good reviews on Amazon is why consumer reviews such as these are not to be relied upon.

I will use the model #4007 as an example for this review.
This LED is designed for 36”-48” aquariums and uses 25 watts of electricity.

The LED emitters consist of 72 White & 36 RGB (Red, Green, & Blue) emitters.

First the good, this truly is a feature rich freshwater aquarium LED, with a nicely laid out controller.

Into the science of lighting, we see that this light achieves its 6500 Kelvin with no-name emitters. Not even known quality off the shelf Bridgelux or similar, which at least reasonable quality LED fixtures utilize.

To balance out the 25 watts between 108 emitters takes at least a reasonable driver circuitry, which this LED does not do since the emitters are clearly daisy chained together as one would do with Christmas lights. This is in part why the energy output in PAR is so low per wattage input, as compared to non discount LEDs.

The result is uneven voltage which affects the quality of the light spectrum as well as the life of the emitters, hence the poor one year warranty.

Green emitters are used for coloration, but are less useful as per photosynthetic life. The un-balanaced blue emitters can also lead to increased algae growth, in particular black beard algae if there’s an off balance of co2. This is a common problem with many of these low end LED lights marketed for freshwater aquarium keepers by discounters such as PetCo and Amazon.

The picture below shows with just the naked eye the amount of less useful yellow light energy emitted by the Satellite LED in a typical setting:

Now let’s look at typical cost when compared to a couple other freshwater capable LEDs.
At about $105 for the model #4007 you get an LED, which uses 25 watts and can light an aquarium comparable to a 40 watt T8 aquarium light.
This would be reasonable lighting for fish, but far from the best too. More importantly this would NOT be the best light for high light requiring plant growth or to fend off algae.

My point is this is a well marketed LED that unfortunately is promoted in aquarium keeping forums that should know better, which should be avoided if quality and long life of the fixture are at all important to you.
These only have an IP65 water resistance rating, which is terrible for an electronic device that is to be laced over water.
Just based on warranty alone, the end price will actually be higher than a better PUR light quality LED, so your value goes right out the window!
But even up front costs are actually higher when comparing apples to apples, as you would need more than one #4007 25 Watt Satellite that produces 25 PAR to achieve the same results as a AAP GroBeam 12 watt that produces 61 PAR at a similar depth, so in the end the Satellite is not even a good up front value for planted aquarium keepers!!

A couple of references:
Aquarium Lighting Facts & Information- PUR
Algae Control- Aquarium Answers

* Specifications-
#4007 Model number based on length
72 White/36 RGB
25 Watts

* Input/Output Energy
PSU Output- 12 V DC

–PAR: 36 PAR at 12 inch with a VERY POOR PAR efficiency of .69 watt input energy per 1 PAR output [See Resource]
–Spectrum:
–Kelvin:

* Circuity/Dimming-
Dimming capable. 0-10 V

* Spread- [See Resource]

* Waterproof- IP65 Proof

* Features-
Color picking
Color changing effect
Controller

* Mounting-
Sliding docking legs

* Warranty- 1 Year

* Resources-
Current Satellite LED Specs

* Coloration-

Current Satellite YouTube

*Current Satellite + Pro:

* Review-

* Specifications-
#4012 (model based on length)

30-6500K/14-RGBW, 44 LEDs total
45 Watts

* Input/Output Energy
12 volts DC

–PAR: 100+ @12 with a below average PAR efficiency of .45 watt per 1 PAR output[See Resource]
–Spectrum: [See Resource]
–Kelvin:

* Circuity/Dimming-
Dimming capable. 0-10 V

* Spread- N/A

* Waterproof- IP65 Proof

* Features-
Fully Adjustable RGB+W spectrum
24 hr. timer control for sunrise, sunset, & Moonlight
Automatic 15 min gradual ramp and dim
Six dynamic effects and presets including cloud cover, fading lunar, storm and lightning
Four freshwater optimized preset colors
Wireless programming
Two custom color memory
Controller
aluminum housing

* Mounting-
Sliding docking legs

* Warranty-

* Resources-
Current Satellite Pro Webpage
Current Satellite Pro Sale Sheet
Current Satellite Compare Sheet

* Coloration-

*Ecoxotic Stunner/Panorama:

* Review-
The popular “Ecoxotic Stunner” is simply for additional lighting, not Reef or planted freshwater aquarium lighting. The LEDs are not of the output, wattage, or even the same generation technology as the LEDs used by other tech.

As well the PAR output generally is below the necessary PAR required for photosynthesis. Now a days, with new higher PUR tech, something like 20 mmol of PAR is all that is required for photosynthesis. This is with more useful energy in the PAR spectrum (PUR), not just any mmol throughout the whole PAR.

Ecoxotic Panorama Strips have 12 older technology 1 watt emitters (vs. the 2.4 watt high PUR emitters used in other fixtures). More emitters are required due the lack of precision (useful energy output, etc).

That said, while the Ecoxotic Panorama Strips are not top level technology, these are still a big improvement on the “Stunner” and can be considered for Reef Tanks. A popular model is the Panorama Module 8000K/453nm Actinic Blue, which consists of 8 white lights and 4 blue lights.

The newer Ecoxotic Panorama Retro 36 is closer to the higher end LEDs, even then the emitters are still not of the high output useful light energy bins.
Please reference: Aquarium Lighting, Useful Light Energy

Worse is Ecoxotic’s approach to patents for the emitters they are using is “go ahead and sue me”, not the kind of company I think any honest person should support.

There’s a reason that the better LEDs are priced as they are. It’s licensing.
(See Orbital Technologies Corporation Statement; Patent Infringement)

* Specifications-
9 Different Colors

(24) x 453nm Blue
(18) x 8K White & 6 x 453nm Blue
(24) x 8K White
(24) x 403nm Ultraviolet
(24) x Magenta Purple/Pink
(16) x Magenta & 8 x 12K White
(24) x 445nm Royal Blue
(16) x 445nm Royal Blue & 8 x 12K White
(16) x 445nm Royal Blue & 8 x Magenta
* Input/Output Energy
6 Watt

PSU 100-120V
50/60 Hz

* Waterproof-
Water resistant

* Mounting-
Adhesive Tape, Clips, or Screws

* Warranty- 1 Year

* Resources-
Ecoxotic Stunner LED

* Coloration-

Marine Aquarium SA- Ecoxotic LED

*Marineland Reef Capable, Single & Double Bright:

* Review-
The over hyped Marineland Double Bright LED lights from Marineland are also purely for highlighting fish only or complimenting other lights.
As with the Ecoxotic Stunner, these are much older “cheap” technology LED emitters of 1 watt each that do not come close in lumen, focused lumen and PAR output as the newer technology LEDs.

The so-called “Reef Capable” LED’s by Marineland, albeit much better than the Double or Single Bright, are still 2 generations behind the emitters used by the other newer generation lights, which utilize the best emitters, the best drivers, and PWM technology.

These Marineland LED’s have a PAR reading, with the newer Apogee PAR meter, above 80 umol at a distance of 18 inches, but this is not the full story.

Since it’s useful light energy (PUR), which is MOST important and this Marine “Reef Capable” LED with its 21 inferior one watt emitters is severely lacking here.

Please Reference: Aquarium Lighting; Measuring PAR & Aquarium Lighting- Useful Light Energy

While the “Reef Capable” are what they say they are in being capable of keeping some photosynthetic reef life, their 21 one watt emitters (on the 18-24″ model) are not of the best PUR available in the better newest generation emitters and yet the Marineland “Reef Capable” are about the same price as the vastly superior LEDs. In fact, using 30 watts of input energy of high output emitters will well out produce the largest Marineland Reef Capable with its 54 one watt low PUR emitters.

See the picture/graph below, while the spectrum of the light is decent for what we know of PUR, the clear way the LED is driven with low watts emitters does not allow for the extra punch in growth, with the extra intensity of higher driven emitters.

There’s not much information published of the LED, but most likely has about a 12K rating. No information on emitters or drivers used.

*As another update to the Marineland Double and Single Bright LEDs, I met with one of my aquarium maintenance colleagues and discussed the results further and re-examined this LED light in action.

After further examining of the low PAR output Chinese emitters used by Marineland as well getting further expert input that these lights are at best for fish only tanks. Basically, the Marine Single Bright had no more output than an 18″ 15 watt T8 Fluorescent aquarium light and should be sold/purchased as such!

In summary, the Marineland LEDs, whether the Single or Double Bright highlight LEDs or the better “Reef Capable” LEDs are still vastly inferior LEDs sold primarily at only often questionable mass merchandisers such as Pet Mountain.

* Specifications-

Size,1 Watt White LEDs,1 Watt Blue LEDs,Lumens
18″-24″, 51,3,300
24″-36″, 68,4,400
36″-48″, 102,6,600
48″-60″, 135,9,800

* Mounting-
Slide out Mount Arms

* Warranty- 1 Year

* Resources-
DISCONTINUED

* Coloration-

*Blue Moon Aquatic 90-watt LED:

* Review-
This is another Asian import along with the TaoTronics (same manufacturer in China), which utilizes older technology in quantity to make up for what it lacks in new emitter technology quality.

As you can see with the picture/diagram below, this LED light is much to heavily weighted in the blue spectrum of light for an accurate PUR (Useful Light Energy).

I would only recommend these LED fixtures as a compliment to 6500K to 10,000K light and even then if you get a great deal, otherwise for 1/3 the wattage you have a much better LED light in better technology.
Reference: Aquarium Lighting- PUR (Useful Light Energy)

The other problem with these two LED Fixtures is the more emitters, the more complex and expensive the drivers, so when you have a fixture such as this TaoTronics or Blue Moon LED with a shotgun approach of emitters yet with essentially no drivers you are essentially stringing hardware store quality LEDs together over your aquarium.

* Specifications-
120 watt, 1 fan

* Circuity/Dimming-
Dimming capable. 0-10 V

* Features-
Color control

* Mounting-
Suspension Kit

* Warranty- 2 Years

* Coloration-

*Evergrow & Ocean Revive LED Aquarium Light- Including the OR-D120
As well as the newer Upgraded Black Box SB Reef Lights LED:

* Review-
A similar Chinese LED to the Blue Moon and Taotronics, these are another economy LED fixture all made in the same Chinese factory. These are all reef/planted aquarium capable via a higher energy shotgun approach to LED emitters & daisy chained drivers.

All three of these LED fixtures are made in China by Chinse company that specializes in branding. Meaning a seller can customize and then re-brand the fixture to fit their marketing niche.
However the guts and concepts are all the same; these are all still lower end low cost LED fixtures that will grow plants & coral well, but are also as much as 1/4 the efficiency of better LED fixtures that better utilize PUR, emitters, drivers and more.
The end result is a most definitely capable LED fixture in the basic as well as customized versions, often with very nice coloration, but also one that when one employs common sense logic, the savings are not what one would think when it requires a 120 watt fixture to do the same job a high end LED could achieve at only 30 watts. Then throw in the lack of water proofing, use of a fan, & other issues that likely will occur once out of warranty and the savings go out the door.

SB REEF LIGHT below

I will start with the newest and very well marketed offering, the SB Reef Light LED.
What the SB Reef offers over the basic Black Box LED is more powerful binned Cree emitters, a larger heat sink and UVA.
However, even on their own website, the USA distributor of this Chinese light is very vague as to real specifications. In reality their web site is all about marketing what “corals crave”, but little real information is provided.

The picture above does clearly show that yellow/amber are used, which are VERY inefficient for photosynthetic light as per the current science of aquarium lighting.
This makes their wave length graph highly suspect, since it shows no yellow light, yet they clearly utilize yellow/amber and cool white emitters!!! Basically this is nothing more than marketing, not science [as the efficiency numbers bear out].
What is also noteworthy is that while many LED lights are coming out with UVA emitters, these are for making our corals, etc. pop with color which is great, but there is little PUR energy with these, meaning wasted energy.

More over, the larger heat sink is required due to the inefficiencies of this fixture both emitter and drivers (typical of the builder), as heat simply equals wasted energy.
As well this black box LED fixture still depends heavily upon fans for cooling and it is not a matter of “if” a fan will fail, but “when” and the end result is over heating and total fixture failure (which has already been reported as per friends in the business and “Bulk Reef Supply”).

Since these lights are overbuilt as per energy used and produced, these often well over produce heat that then needs to be dissipated, even when dimmed since these lights do not utilize PWM.
The terrible efficiency of this over hyped LED shows up when we simply measure the wattage of input energy to product just one micro-mol of PAR. The SB Reef Light, while producing a spectacular PAR that is not even needed for most applications, requires .41 watt of input energy per mm of PAR generated. Even the economy Finnex is lower!!
When dimmed, as most applications require, the lack of PWM means these lights use the same energy input for even less PAR!

These are also not built to IP67 water resistance standards.

While the price is good along with coloration, by the time one figures in that these are only about 1/4 the efficiency of better LED fixtures, any up front savings are out the window. Then, once build quality is factored in, including water resistance, these are NOT a good long term investment.

The SB Reef Light is currently sold and serviced directly from China, but they are setting up a distribution point in the USA with a 2 year warranty.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

The Ocean Revive OR-D120 uses 120 watts to achieve the questionably similar PUR output to a high out 30 watts unit, which defeats the purpose of LED energy savings.

As well these are another LED, which utilizes heat producing, energy wasting 0-10V current reduction technology rather than PWM technology, which is much more energy efficient.
Reference: Aquarium LED Lighting; PWM

While one could argue the green emitters add nice colors, these are less useful lights when it comes to ESSENTIAL PUR.

As well the use of warm while emitters is also very questionable, as no one would ever place neutral or especially a warm white fluorescent light over their reef aquarium, YET it is somehow OK for an LED?

The cool white is also a questionable emitter.

Here are a couple of Spectrograms, which further prove this point, as you can see most of the light energy is NOT within the important spikes required by photosynthetic life, rather mostly in the middle useless nanometer spectrums.

The above said, this IS a reef capable LED light, just at a cost of much more electricity used (& higher carbon footprint), with a much lower PUR as per energy used than the MANY much better LEDs, as well as a much shorter fixture lifespan due to heat damage. But the color mix is nice and pleasing to some, especially those who place appearance over technology.

Some people will claim the addition of these color emitters are for coloration of the corals and prefer color over optimum growth of the specimen.

Please also reference this article:
PUR versus PAR in Aquarium Lighting

* Specifications-

Arctic-T247-B 120W LED Aquarium Light (shipped from China)
2 fan
LED Quantity 48pcs
(2) Red 660nm
(2) Green 520nm
(8) Blue 470nm
(16) Royal Blue 450nm
(6) Violet 420nm
(8) Cool White 12000K
(6) Cool White 10000K

OR-IT2081 240W LED Aquarium Light
3 Fan
LED Quantity 99pcs
(4) Red 660nm
(4) Green 520nm
(32) Blue 470nm
(19) Royal Blue 450nm
(4) Violet 420nm
(24) Cool White 12000K
(12) Neutral White 7500K

Arctic-S026 120W LED Aquarium Light
2 fan
LED Quantity 48pcs
(2) Red 660nm
(2) Green 520nm
(8) Blue 470nm
(16) Royal Blue 450nm
(6) Violet 420nm
(6) Cool White 12000K
(6) Cool White 10000K

OR-IT2040 120W LED Aquarium Light
2 fan
LED Quantity 55pcs
(2) Red 660nm
(2) Green 520nm
(4) Violet 420nm
(6) Neutral White 7500K
(8) Blue 470nm
(21) Royal Blue 450nm
(12) Cool White 12000K

* Input/Output Energy

–PAR: 90-300 umols [See Resource]
–Spectrum: N/A
–Kelvin: N/A

* Circuity/Dimming-
Dimming capable. 0-10 V
Upgraded Drivers

* Spread- [See Resource]

* Waterproof-N/A

* Features-
Sunrise/SunSet/Moonlight
Controller
Coloration control
Touch Screen/LCD
Manual Intensity Control
B/W Control
Built in plug-in

* Mounting-
Bracket or Hanging Kit

* Warranty- 1 Year for Evergrow & Ocean Revive and 2 years for the SB Reef Lights LED

* Resources-
OceanRevive LED
Arctic-T247 120W
OR-IT2081 240W
Arctic-S026 120W
OR-IT2040 120W

* Coloration-

Reef Central Ocean Revive Arctic T247

*EcoTech Radion:

* Review-
This is a very nicely built LED with lots of interesting features, however when it gets down to the important PUR (Useful Light Energy) and warranty, this LED falls short.

A video promoting this, which missed a key point in my experience/opinion, where he only used a PAR meter which does not show PUR, which is MOST important and requires a spectrograph to show more correctly.
Please Reference: Aquarium Lighting; Measuring PAR

This video review did show the Radion can and DOES maintain corals, but it’s still using somewhat of the “shotgun approach” instead of a direct approach of specific LED emitters and use of PWM technology, which in the end requires about twice the wattage input for the same PUR results.

By “shotgun approach” I mean the common way in the past of lighting aquariums with multiple lamps using T8 or T12 bulbs to obtain the necessary light energy for photosynthetic life rather than specific light nanometers [this is not to say the EcoTech are even close to a T8 or T12 lamp, as they are vastly superior, this is only used as an analogy].
An example of what I mean, are the cool white and green emitters used, see below.

See the Spectrograph below to see why:

The EcoTech Radion, emits a significant percentage of its light in the blue as well as some green, yellow, & red spectrums

This is certainly a nice mix of Blue emitters with both the XP and XT, albeit generic emitter bins from Cree. The Indigo and Ultraviolet emitters certainly add nicely to the blue mix.

The mix of Blues is probably the best aspect of the EcoTech Radion, and why when compared to the AI Sol, I would pick the the EcoTech for any tank over 20 inches in depth when compared to the Aqua Illuminations.
The overall spectrum is probably one of the best, comparable to the TMC AquaRay Reef White NP 2000 Ultima

See this article for a Spectrograph comparing the Cree Blue emitters (although the ones used in this article are not generic off the shelf Cree emitters):
PUR vs PAR in Aquarium Lighting; Including Spectrographs

The use of cool white and green emitters is questionable as per references cited here and elsewhere in this article, as well as other researched articles.

I also mildly question the use of Red emitters for Reef Lighting applications, since symbiotic photosynthetic zooanthellic have adapted over eons to the more blue environment of the oceans versus photosynthetic “higher” plants found in freshwater applications.

From discussions with other reef keepers, they have not noted any improvement with added red lighting and in fact have anecdotally noted slower coral growth.

The other misleading aspects are the completely useless RGB and capacitive touch ‘features’. Controlling your RGB (Red, Green, Blue) of your light has little bearing on obtaining the exacting nanometer spikes necessary for photosynthetic life.

There’s no known benefit from the RGB feature and in fact some reviews state this can be stressful/harmful to coral. The reason is above spectrograph output only holds true when the emitters are run at the operating voltage and current that they were designed for unless PWM is employed. As soon as that simple voltage rheostat is used (“control technology”) or RGB is altered, the spectral output changes.

As noted in other articles cited/referenced here, the emitter choice is just part of the LED equation, the use of “Current Reduction” instead of the vastly superior PWM technology is a major drawback of the EcoTech Radion.

The evidence is the requirement of a cooling fan, which can break down from the heat produced. As well the placement of the fan tends to draw moisture into the fixture which is a complaint of many reef keeping professionals. One reason for the 1 year warranty offered by EcoTech in my opinion!.
Further Reference: Radion XR30w Gen 2 Fan Failure.
More importantly, the excess heat which requires a cooling fan also represents a considerable amount of lost input energy to heat that could be going to lighting your aquarium reef specimens. This is NOT an opinion either, as it is basic science that energy going to produce heat is energy NOT going to light!

Another evidence is that the Radion Pro produces 1100 µMol•m²•sec PAR from 155 watts of input energy at 6 inches of air, but when compared to the before mentioned AquaRay Reef White 2000 NP Ultima, the AquaRay is rated at 380 µMol•m²•sec at 15 inches of air.
Just assuming both were at 15 inches of air, so as to compare equally otherwise, when you multiply the 5 AquaRay 2000s at 30 input watts to equal the Radion Pro, you get 1900 µMol•m²•sec. So in other words (using these numbers), just in PAR, you only get half the output per wattage of energy used for the EcoTech when compared to the AquaRay LED.

As well since we were comparing EcoTechs number at 6 inches, and AquRay at 15 inches, this also would increase the AquaRay numbers by even more.

The end result is a fixture that may require about 1.5 watts per gallon to light an advanced reef tank compared to .8 watt for, as an example, the AquaRay Ultima.

What I have noted from my own research and that of my aquarium design & maintenance friends is that the EcoTech Radion is well marketed to the point that many if not most forums and aquarium stores assume this is the best LED available when although excellent, it is not necessarily the best as per reasons and research cited here.

Even EcoTech’s own customer service [according to a friend who forwarded me an email] will refer questions about their product to forums.
See this quote:
“I would recommend doing a search in some online reef forums”

So, all I ask is that one does there research, do not just take my word, as while these are certainly an excellent reef capable LED light, these are not necessarily the best. The bells and whistles also certainly may be what one buyer would desire, but another buyer might prefer an equally reef capable LED that is more efficient with less energy lost to heat or used as green light energy (that has no known PUR benefit).

In fact as per electrical saving alone, this fixture will cost you $62 more per year based on running at 12 hours per day and with an average electrical cost of .13 per kWh. Factor in the one year warranty and lower lifespan (1 year warranty) and this can be a very expensive Reef Aquarium LED to purchase and keep over time!!

Finally as per a comment asking me to back up my claims with data, while I cited references throughout this article, the above three, which includes my base article about LEDs, are also now added just above.

As well as the Radions own data as per emitters used, simply reading the references and combining this with the Radions own published emitters pretty much backs up my statements, not to mention hands on use by others I know and the second reference above.
CRI is also often cited as a selling point for the EcoTech, however this is not a parameter a reef keeper needs to be concerned with as this is for human lighting; see Aquarium Lighting- CRI

Update:
TMC had a quality control failure in 2012 where-by these same cool white Cree emitters from EcoTech were used in their Ocean White 1500 XG fixtures instead of the correct patented XPG 9000-10000k emitters.

What is interesting is this mistake was caught by knowledgeable customers, one of whom made a spectrograph so as to back up their claim that these were not the correct emitters.

Why I find this interesting and why I post this in the review of the EcoTech LED is that those with reasonable knowledge of “Useful Light Energy” easily spotted this problem, yet based on friends in the retail industry and others will argue about CRee licensing while missing this very simple and basic problem with the LEDs using Cool White emitters.

* Specifications-

Radion XR15 Freshwater Water
60 watt, 1 fan

LED Quantity 15
(5) Neutral White
(2) Deep Blue
(2) Blue
(2) Green
(2) Hyper Red
(1) Indigo
(1) UV

Radion XR15w Pro
75 watt, 1 fan

LED Quantity 15
(4) Cool White: Cree XP-G2 (20W)
(4) Deep Blue: Osram Oslon Square (20W)
(4) Blue: Cree XP-E (12W)
(2) Green: Cree XP-E Green (7W)
(2) Hyper Red: Osram Oslon SSL (6W)
(2) Yellow: Osram Oslon SSL (3W)
(1) Indigo: SemiLEDs (5W)
(2) UV: SemiLEDs (5W)

Radion XR30w
150 watt, 1 fan

LED Quantity 38
(8) Cool White: Cree XT-E (40W)
(6) Deep Blue: Osram Oslon Square (24W)
(8) Blue: Cree XP-E (24W)
(4) Green: Cree XP-E Green (14W)
(4) Hyper Red: Osram Oslon SSL (12W)
(4) Indigo: SemiLEDs (10W)
(4) UV: SemiLEDs (10W)

Radion XR30w Pro
170 watt, 1 fan

LED Quantity 42
(8) Cool White: Cree XP-G2 (40W)
(8) Deep Blue: Osram Oslon Square (40W )
(8) Blue: Cree XP-E (24W)
(4) Green: Cree XP-E (14W)
(4) Hyper Red: Osram Oslon SSL (12W)
(2) Yellow: Osram Oslon SSL (6W)
(4) Indigo: SemiLEDs (10W)
(4) UV: SemiLEDs (10W)

* Input/Output Energy
110-240V

115VAC, 3.5A; 240VAC, 1.8A; 50/60 Hz

–PAR: [See Resource]
–Spectrum: [See Resource]
–Kelvin: Custom

* Circuity/Dimming-
Dimming capable. 0-10 V
Drivers

* Spread- [See Resource]

* Waterproof- IP rated fan

* Features-
Full Spectrum + UV
Preconfigured outputs matching popular Kelvin ratings
24-hour customizable program schedule
Multi Channel
Independent day and night periods with lunar calendar
Acclimation mode for ease of integration with aquarium
Weather condition simulation; sunrise, sunset, clouds and lightning
Wireless Control Capable
EcoSmart Live
IP Rated Fan (Certain Model)
TIR Lenses

* Mounting-
adjustable base bracket

* Warranty- 1 Year

* Resources-
radion-xr15-freshwater
radion-xr15w-Pro
radion-xr30w
radion-xr30w-Pro

* Coloration-

I Love Reefing- EcoTech Radion

*Kessil Freshwater & Saltwater

* Review-
The Kessil Reef & Planted Aquarium Capable LED light is popular among many deeper reef aquarium keepers.
However marketing has driven many, including prominent YouTubers, to think these are better lights than they actually are.

This is a very sleek and compact LED light, one of the better ones in my opinion. The Kessil LEDs also use patented emitters.

Kessil’s emitters are patented Dense Matrix LED™ technology which concentrates multiple LED chips into an array.

The Kessil A360W (the ‘W’ is for wide angle) is their flagship as of the most recent revision of this article.

Multiple Kessil A360Ws can be controlled with a single Apex Controller—two channels are required for each Kessil controlled. Future versions of the Apex Controller software will add functionality to the Kessil A360W. An example of this added functionality is a more gradual dimming and color shift.

The A360W still has the two knobs, just like the A350W. But instead of one knob controlling the blue LEDs and the second knob controlling the white LEDs, one knob is used to control overall intensity and the other knob the blue/white LED spectrum mix. You can tune a preferred color within the spectral range thousands of research and testing hours determined to be the optimal spectral points.

The A360W is a wide angle model has a beam spread of 70 degrees vertically (140 degrees edge-to-edge) and is recommended for larger tanks that are relatively shallow while the Kessil A160WE Coverage Area is up to 24″ surface diameter for fish-only/soft corals and up to 18″ surface diameter for mixed reef with LPS or SPS corals.

The Kessil A360W is 90 Watts with an effective light greater than a 250 watt metal halide while the Kessil A160WE is 40 Watts.

Now some of the the negatives, based on the known science of lighting:

The adjustable feature that is cool to most aquarium keepers is also degrading to effective PUR, as while it is nice to have these features from our perspective, the simple fact is what you or I might like is not often what is the optimum PUR.
As well, as with the AI and many other “tunable” LEDs, when adjusting your light spectrum, your LEDs full potential is wasted. This results (as an example) in a 90 watt LED becoming 60 watt LED or less, so PAR output is also considerably degraded.

In the end you are much better off with a proven fixed PUR spectrum set from the factory rather than a blend of “tunable” emitter colors.

Reference: PUR vs PAR in Aquarium Lighting (LED); Fresh & Saltwater (Reef)
The amount of energy wasted as heat is still high due in part to its features such as use of tuning without PWM, hence the need for a cooling fan. This is also why the Kessil A360W only replaces a 250 watt MH when higher PUR per watt, Other LEDs can accomplish this with half the wattage.

Kessil refuses to publish any PAR readings which while PUR is certainly a a consideration, PAR is still the standard measurement to start with. As well, since we already know their spectral quality is suspect, it is difficult for Kessil to hang their hat on PUR to make up for poor PAR readings, especially outside the direct central of their lights.
This answer from Kessil is rather alarming:
“At this time we do not have any published information about light output. PAR is not an accurate measurement for measuring light using LEDs because it only includes visible light, and does not distinguish between usable and non-usable wavelengths. ”
ACTUALLY PAR measure mostly inside the usable spectrum, it simply falls off toward the blue & red ends, meaning a PAR reading of a LED that is mostly blue that has everything else the same [including input wattage] is going to be lower.

When we measure the Kessil A150 (90 Watt) which I have firm PAR readings directly under at 15 inches of air [not water which can throw some variables] we get 325 µMol•m²•sec.
While this is certainly a good number as per raw PAR, but when we factor in that this is only directly under the light and this is at a full 90 watts of input energy, this is actually a very inefficient LED light as this is .28 watt of input energy per mm of PAR.
By comparison the AAP/TMC Reef White 2000 has a PAR of 380 uEinsteins/sec/m2 @15 inches of air using ONE THIRD THE INPUT ENERGY [30 watts]. This is .08 watt of input energy per mm of PAR, TRIPLE THE PAR OUTPUT PER WATT!
This does not even factor in the better spectral quality, making the Kessil a very suspect aquarium LED for the price paid IMHO!

In my opinion, it is unfortunate that so many planted and reef keeping gurus hang their hats on these good, but far from the best LEDs. The only logic I can see outside of brilliant marketing is the sleek looks.

* Specifications-
* Input/Output Energy
PSU Input 100-240V AC
PSU Output 24V DC

Freshwater
A150WE Amazon Sun
6700K non descript emitters
34 watt, 1 fan

A160WE Tuna Sun
6,000-9,000K Tunable non descript emitters
40 watt, 1 fan

A360WE Tuna Sun
6,000-9,000K Tunable non descript emitters
90 watt, 1 fan

Saltwater
A150W Tuna Blue
34 watt, 1 fan

A160WE Tuna Blue
40 watt, 1 fan

A350/A350W Tuna Blue
90 watt, 1 fan

A360N/A360W Tuna Blue
90 watt, 1 fan
New LED Design

AP700
185 watt, 1 fan
Power Converter

–PAR: N/A
–Spectrum: [See Resource]
–Kelvin: [See Resource]

* Circuity/Dimming-
Dimming capable. 0-10 V
Drivers

* Spread- [See Resource]

* Waterproof- N/A

* Features-
Manufacture LEDs in-house
Penetration
Shimmer
Double Peak Spectrum (PAS)
Color Mix
Intensity Control
Daisy-chain multiple
UV Spectrum
Channels
Master Salve (A360)
WiFi (AP700)

* Mounting-
Mounting Brackets

* Warranty- 1 Year

* Resources-
Kessil LED Lights

Kessil Failures
QUOTE: “I figure there are a lot of Kessil users here on R2R. Am curious, with regard to the A360WE, what folks experiences have been with longevity. I have a bunch of them on my system and have not been particularly happy with them from a reliability perspective. Kessil is very good about the warranty (and I had two fail under warranty), but I’ve now had my first fail outside of the warranty and am trying to decide how to proceed. 2-3 years from a $400 (now $350) light just seem quite poor to me, but perhaps I am just unlucky. I clean them out regularly. Anyhow, would be interested to hear how long folks have been running these lights and whether you have had failures.”

* Coloration-

Kessil Led’s – Meet The Family

*E.Shine, Stark LED:

* Review-
E.Shine is a large producer of LED Fixtures, which are probably among the nicer design and generally better quality LEDs coming out of China.

E.Shine often does not sell directly under their name, rather they market to retailers and distributors for their own branding.

Stark LED (distributed by Sea Dwelling Creatures of LA) is probably the most common marketer of this LED Fixture.

While E-Shine has updated their emitter bins, they remain behind the industry leaders as E.Shine utilizes common “binned” Cree & Bridgelux emitters, often a generation or two back at that.

In fact even E.Shine’s own web site admits that the older generation 3 watt CREE XG used for their COOL WHITE Daylight Aquarium LED Lights vary from 8000~10,000K; not the exacting emitters used by high end LED fixtures that target specific nanometer wavelengths for the best PUR.
Reference: e-Shine 60 Watt Cree Classic LED.

Please note that these are cool white emitters. Would you go to the hardware store and place a cool white lamp over your reef tank?
These emitters used by E.shine do NOT maintain the peak PUR necessary for delicate marine life, and instead have much more wasted yellow and green wavelengths due to use of cool white and green emitters.

It is also noteworthy that ALL E.Shine LEDs require a fan, some more than one at that. A proper driver along with PWM does not require a fan due to better control of voltage between the emitters, notwithstanding, spikes in voltage which decay PUR show up as excess heat!!

Also please read this article:
PUR vs PAR in Reef, Planted Aquariums Lights

E.Shine does a great job “pushing” these LEDs on companies looking to sell a nice looking product at a VERY good mark up, as I know of a friend in the business that gets these LEDs constantly marketed to him at prices that would allow for much better margins (since the emitters are low cost generic Cree emitters). However he has rejected these out of integrity to sell the best generation LEDs, even if the profit margins are lower.

One plus is E-Shine has increased their warranty to 3 years for most fixtures. From input of those using these products longer term, e-Shine has basically used the same design and technology, keeping development costs down while also improving quality control, thus the better warranty.
In the end with eShine, you get a very energy wasting, but still reef capable LED of older technologies, and with a good price and good warranty.

* Circuity/Dimming-
Dimming capable. 0-10 V

* Waterproof- N/A

* Warranty- 1-3 Years

* Coloration-

E Shine LED Systems

*Other LED Aquarium Lights (such as the Boost LED, Orphek):

There are many other LED lights coming fast onto the market, occasionally excellent, many good, many not so good, some a downright rip-off!

Knowing about what makes for correct Aquarium Lighting is quite helpful in making an informed decision.
Please reference: Aquarium Lights Facts and Information- Correct lighting

I would also stress that even among the more effective new LEDs hitting the market, such as the BoostLED, these all have to compensate for inferior emitters with high amounts of wattage used, which in my humble opinion defeats a primary reason to use quality LED lighting for your Reef or planted freshwater aquarium; lower electrical consumption per output of useful light energy!.

Using 4.5 times the energy (wattage) to produce only 30% more PAR, as in the BoostLED versus other tech, makes little sense to me or most aquarium professionals I have spoken with seeking the best lighting for their clients. This “shotgun” approach to aquarium lighting defeats the reasons to use LED lights [energy savings], one might as well use a good 150 Watt Metal Halide rather than a 135 Watt LED.

A Few decades ago, the “shotgun approach” is all many aquarium keepers of high light planted or basic reef tanks had as per comments by a 35 plus year aquarium professional I interviewed. So using eight 48 inch 40 watt “cool white” T12 lights to light one 60 gallon aquarium was sometimes necessary, but this is not necessary with many modern lights, so why go backwards when the technology is here?

For an example of a newer “excellent” LED Aquarium Light is the “Orphek Nilus Reef Aquarium LED Light” which is equal to a 250w-400w MH/HPS light.

The Orphek Nilus 120 watt LED light contains 60 LEDs in 90 degree lenses running at 2 watts each within a 24″x 6″ x 2″ housing.

This LED has (4) innovative “True Violet” 380nm – 420nm emitters (excellent for 30″ + tanks) as well as (4) 640 nm red emitters (which are nice for coral color aesthetics, but little to no effective PUR use in tanks over 18 inches of depth).

Other emitters include (3) 14,000K-16,000K White emitters and (22) Royal Blue 450nm – 470nm emitters

This LED is quite expensive (over $800), however it is designed for tanks over 30 inches in depth [replacing Metal Halides]. The overall color temperature is about 16,000k.

The spectral range is greater than the common Cree or Luxeon LEDs used in many LED fixtures, starting at just around 400nm (violet) and spanning all of the way to 750nm.

This is a top notch LED Aquarium Light for deep reef tanks, however I do not agree with a couple aspects of this design of this light and that is its emphasis on CRI (Color Rendering Index), as this is more important to what we see and not what the symbiotic zooanthellic algae within corals actually require. As well the Orphek white emitters are 12000K to 25000k leaving out much of the essential near infrared.
Please reference: Aquarium Lighting; CRI (Color Rendering Index)

While I realize that the popular fad of fading/dimming LEDs for sunrise/sunset is simply that; a fad as there is no scientific basis that this aids corals, I also do not agree with Orphek’s use of “blue” lights for moon light phase, which is also just a fad with no scientific basis in fact.

So once you get past the hype, this is still an excellent LED for those with deep tanks that may otherwise use a 400 Watt 20,000K MH, assuming you can even obtain these LED Aquarium Lights, however based on Orphek’s own data, this is NOT an LED fixture for tanks under 24 inches in depth

LED REVIEW SUMMARY

Emitter bins used in LED Lights are improving rapidly, although I am sure at some point these will hit the technology ceiling.

In the mean time, one can be certain of one thing, the best emitters are going to be licensed/patented and one is not going to find these in many of the cheapie knock offs. Even many of the “better” LEDs may use the newest emitter bins, but these are still “over the counter” emitter bins meant for many uses, not necessarily aquarium lighting and these bins generally aimed at higher CRI rather than the much more important PUR.

Another issue is that some companies are practicing patent infringement to close this technology gap. Purchasing these LED Aquarium Lights is not only a moral decision, but also many of these “stolen technology” LEDs are cheaply made and once these LEDs are legally closed down, the person who did not care about the moral issue, will likely face the problem of a light that fails to work long term with no customer support. This will result in these knock off LEDs being useless and not the bargain one might think when purchasing.

Finally, also realize the most important light measurement is “Useful Light Energy” or PUR and although I recommend the use of PAR Meters as a measurement of any aquarium lighting fixture, in the end this FAR from 100% accurate, especially when one considers the emitter bins used, and useless PUR emitter colors such as green. Often the “cheap” LEDs produce considerably more useless green/yellow light and are bottom heavy in the Blue Spectrum.

So, consider whether your so-called “deal” of a LED Light is really a deal at all or look at it this way: would you use multiple LED Flashlights you can purchase at Walmart to light your Reef or planted Aquarium? Although this analogy is a bit exaggerated, it is still a reasonable analogy when one considers current technology advances and the costs of developing these advances.

For further Aquarium Lighting information, I strongly suggest reading this long, but in depth article:
* “Aquarium Lighting; Reef, Planted, More”

*PUR/PAS vs PAR in Aquarium Lighting; Including Spectrographs

*ReefTank123; Aquarium Lighting

*Purchase Aquarium LED Lighting; What to Know

While making recommendations, if your aquarium has a UV Sterilizer for Disease Prevention and Redox Balance, I recommend changing your UV-C Bulbs every six months for maximum performance and this and this is the place for premium UV Bulbs:
Ultraviolet Bulbs; page 1

Recommended Reading:

Fish Diseases | How to Treat Sick Fish

Further Product Recommendations:
PREMIUM Aquarium Sponge Filters

61 Comments

Posted in Aquarium Lighting, Uncategorized

Tagged AI Hydra FiftyTwo, AI Vega, Aqua Illumination Review, Aqua Illuminations Vega, AquaRay LED Review, AquaRay Review, AquaRed Flexi-LED, Aquarium LED Light Review, Aquarium Lighting, Aquarium Lights, Blue Moon Aquatic LED, Blue Moon LED, Boost LED, Build My LED, Double Bright LED, E Shine LED REview, Ecotech, EcoTech Radion Pro, Ecoxotic, Evergrow LED, Fluval LED, Fluval LED Review, illumenair, Kessil, Kessil review, LED Light Review, Maxspect, Mazarra, Ocean Revive, Orphek LED, Panorama Strips, Satellite LED Review, SB Reef LED, Stark LED Review, TMC LED Review, Truelumen Review, Zetlight

AQUARIUM LIGHTING BASICS; Parameters, Lights Technology

Posted on January, 12 | 10 comments

By Steve Allen

Further Revised 1/5/19

Much of the information used with permission from:
Aquarium Light- Facts & Information

Sections Included in this Article:

Overview

Determining What Lighting is Needed

Choosing Aquarium Lights, Types

Set-Up Suggestion Example

Light (lamp) Placement

Aquarium Lighting Overview

There are many considerations when choosing aquarium lighting, in particular lighting for “high end” applications such as marine reefs or high light planted aquariums.

“Watts per gallon” is still often referred to, however of late this is but one part of many parameters to consider.
This is specially true when high end LED lights are considered (this does not include low end and similar LED lights).

An example of a “high end” LED:
TMC AquaRay Aquarium Light Systems

An example of a “low end” LED:
Marineland Double Bright LEDs

Watts per gallon is only useful in comparing “apples to apples” such as similar T5 lights to another or related technology LED lights to another (not a Marineland Double Bright to a high end TMC AquaRay LED).

For a better understanding please read this ENTIRE Aquarium Lighting article, which explains that a watt is simply a measurement of input energy, NOT light output either quality or quantity:
Aquarium Lighting Information

Even comparable lumen output of the lamp is no longer a good measure of lighting parameter performance due to focus and restrike as well as PAR & related useful light energy (PUR).

A good example is a modern LED such as the AquaRay which has a vastly higher useful energy (PUR) output than a comparable wattage CFL (such as a Current USA Compact Fluorescent) at 20 inches.

Important Parameters to consider when choosing a light for your aquarium with the first two probably the most important [not a complete list]:

Photosynthetic Active Radiation- PAR

20-40 PAR required for high light demanding plants, including all photosynthetic carpeting.
One way to look at PAR is the quantity of light photons

PUR/Useful Light Energy- this is an IMPORTANT FACTOR as per currently known & proven science, and when PAR of two different lights is equal, then PUR will trump PAR. But unfortunately this is also a very difficult parameter to measure.
One way to look at PUR is the quality of light photons.
- This includes exacting nanometer spikes to obtain necessary photosynthesis at varying depths of water for freshwater plants or corals, clams, etc. in a reef aquarium. This is included, but also different than high output energy, which simply provides overall more energy for photosynthesis and not just the exact nanometers.
  References:
  Nanometers in Aquarium Lighting
  PUR, PAS, PAR in Aquarium Reef/Planted Lighting; LED Wavelengths
  PUR or RQE, YouTube Video Fail- Guide to lighting a planted tank

Watts per gallon

Lumens and lumens per watt

Output in relation to bulb length (this is where LEDs and to a lesser extent T2s and T5s excel).
While a minor parameter, it is still worth considering

Lumen focus (AKA Restrike).
This is common to ALL fluorescent lights, whether modern T2 or T5 or older T12s.

Lux is derived from the lumen and is a measure of illuminance.
This is the luminous flux hitting the surface.
Similar to PAR & PUR as this is the amount of useable light.

For example, 1000 lumens spread over an area of 1 square meter gives you a figure of 1000 lux, however the same amount of light spread over 10 square meters gives an illuminance of only 100 lux.

In short illuminance is more relevant to lighting an aquarium than luminous flux (lumens), because this is the measure of light that can be applied to your aquarium.

This figure will decrease the further from the light source you get.

As an example of the inaccuracy of the watts per gallon so-called rule, please consider these comparisons for an assumed 20 gallon aquarium using High End LED Lights (GroBeam) and T8 or T12 Fluorescent lights such as the Flora Grow (by Hagen):

* 20 watt T12 light with a Kelvin temperature of 5000 K
Compared to:
*20 Watt LED with an adjusted Kelvin temperature of 6500 K

The “watts per gallon rule” would certainly require at least four of the 20 Watt T8/T12 Flora Grow while this same 20 gallon freshwater aquarium would only require ONE 12 watt TMC GroBeam 600 LEDs, this is .15 of the required wattage or about .60 Watts per gallon!!!

For reef applications using high end LED emitters only, not Marineland Single/Double Bright, Ecoxtic Stunners, etc., It’s suggested for about .8 to 1 watt per gallon. So, two AquaBeam Reef White LEDs would be my suggestion for this 20 gallon aquarium.

Based on raw data from controlled tests, even the modern comparable Kelvin HO T5 lights or Metal Halide, which are so popular do not hold-up in comparison to a modern LED with the latest generation LED emitters used by AquaRay and a handful of others. This data indicates a modern LED requires 14-28% of wattage for the same useful light energy output.

Even then a T5 or even more so a T2 are vastly superior to the older style aquarium fluorescent lights when all criteria are applied (SHO as well are also superior).
Source: T2 Aquarium Lighting, Lights

Bluntly, the new generation Osram Oslon & Cree Power LED emitters, coupled advanced drivers, and Pulse Width Modulations controlling, ARE THE HIGHEST OUTPUT AQUARIUM LIGHTS PER WATT CONSUMED!
See this article I wrote for more about “Pulse Width Modulation”:
Aquarium LED Lighting, PWM

Changing bulbs:
With the exception of LED, most aquarium bulbs go through what is called a half life whereby they are at 50% output. This generally happens around 6 to 9 months in time with normal usage, however with lower usage (say 8-12 hours per day) this can be stretched to 12 months plus.

Lighting Time
Here’s a summary of lighting requirements for different aquarium types. I recommend timers for any aquarium to provide good daylight/night cycles, however this is even more important with Planted Freshwater and Saltwater Reef or Nano Reef tanks. Turn the blue/actinic lights on about one to 1/2 hour ahead of the daylight bulbs and one to 1/2 hour later in the evening.

I generally have the strongest lights on for about 12 hours per day. Sometimes with MH, I will have them in a third cycle, which is on for only about 10 hours or less. I would run moonlights for about 14-16 hours (some prefer to run these 24/7, however I have yet to find any benefit from this, other than aesthetics.

Determining what Lighting your aquarium will need

The type and intensity of lighting in an aquarium affects health, stress, coloration, photosynthesis, and stimulates reproduction. This applies primarily to aquarium plants, reef corals, anemones, etc. HOWEVER this can apply to fish too such as stress from too little light of the best daylight spectrums or too much light.

Some aquarium organisms come from shaded regions, like rain forest rivers, where most of the light in their day is indirect.

An example would be Discus which are often placed in brightly lit planted aquariums where no consideration for ‘shade’ is provided. In such tanks uneven lighting would be best.
This same concept applies to mushroom anemones, which do not require bright high intensity lighting, so if kept with acropora corals, shading has to be considered.

Choosing Aquarium Lights, Types:

Since many aquarium keepers have requested guide to sizing the light desired to their aquarium needs, I will provide a generalized “watts per gallon” at the end of three of these newer technology lights.

LED Aquarium Lights
LED Light technology has come a long way in recent years (2011 as of this update), however many are still very confused as to what a LED can or cannot do for your aquarium.

Most cheap LEDs such as the Marineland Double or Single Bright (or even those with high output emitters) do not have the correct/best PAR, and most importantly PUR (PUR trumps PAR and is the most important parameter, yet the most difficult to measure).

With the development of a few advanced LED lights such as the “high end” AquaRay LED Reef & Freshwater Aquarium Lights, the use of LED lights for high end applications such as reef or planted aquariums has become a reality in recent years..

With these low input/high output TMC AquaRay LEDs (and a few others), there is no requirement for additional/supplemental even for high light requiring planted freshwater or reef aquariums with SPS Coral (under 30 inches in depth).

As well, an advanced LED light provides healthy high quality light for a fish only tank and uses almost no electricity when compared to traditional aquarium lighting.

Watts Per Gallon: As a generalization and this ONLY applies to high output LEDs mentioned here, which utilize these technologies:

Latest patented emitters, such as by Cree XBs (most fixtures do not have patents) as well as the Osram Oslon NP Blue, which is the first emitter specifically designed for reef use.

Pulse Width Modulation Technology, NOT 0-10v “current reduction” technology, which most LEDs utilize and wastes considerable electrical energy as heat.

Not high amounts of green, yellow, cool white, warm white emitters

And drivers, which correctly regulate voltage over each emitters, since these are NOT bulbs that can be daisy chained together, rather electronic diodes requiring very exacting voltage

*For a high light requiring planted aquarium: .6 watt per gallon.
*For an advanced Marine Reef: .8 to 1 watt per gallon

Here are the suggested watts per gallon for three other top aquarium LEDs:
*1.25 to 1.5 watts per gallon for the AI Hydra & Sol LED, EcoTech Radion, and the Kessil LED

Here are the suggested watts per gallon for a few other GOOD aquarium LEDs:
*2- 2.25 watts per gallon for Taotronics, Ocean Revive, Evergrow and similar relatively quality Chinese LEDs

Here are the suggested watts per gallon for a few other lower end aquarium LEDs:
*2.75-4 watts per gallon for the Marine Double Bright, Sky, Finnex, Fluval, and similar low end Chinese LEDs

T2 Aquarium Lights
(Pictured at the top of this article)
These are probably the second newest lighting development (as of writing this article update). Similar to the T5, but with a higher yet lumen per watt output in even less space.

Although not available in as many sizes and wattage outputs as the T5 (making it not always the best fit as compared to its older technology cousin), it makes up for this in its simple diversity, which allows for linking multiple lights together for larger tanks or higher output.

The T2 aquarium fixture has another feature most T5 lights do not have; a directional lens which allows for better directional light control. This equates to better focused lumens, which is especially useful for planted aquariums or small reef tanks (not as necessary for fish only tanks).

The T2 is an excellent cost saving compliment to LED lights for basic reef or high light planted freshwater tanks (the T2 is best “supplemented” for the highest light need tanks); while for all other tanks the T2 can be used as a stand alone low operating cost light.
Even when compared to low technology LEDs such as the Marineland Single Bright, a 13 Watt T2 actually out produces the Marineland Single Bright in useful energy (based on measured PAR, spectrum analysis, etc.)

Even a longer tank, such as a 6 foot aquarium can have 3 or 4 T2s linked together to make a superior upgrade from outdated T8 or T12 lights many freshwater fish only tanks still employ, with an increase in useful light energy and a decrease in electrical operating costs due to vastly higher efficiency.
Source: T2 Aquarium Fixtures

Watts Per Gallon: As a generalization, 1 to 1.25 watts per gallon for a planted aquarium
For Marine Reef, 1.50 to 1.75 watts of the the 6400K lights (mixed with other light types such as T5 or LED Reef Blue for the UV-A Blue light necessary for many reef inhabitants)

SHO CFL Lights
SHO Lights have been used for a few years in hospitals and Commercial Nurseries/Hydroponics operations with exceptional results for plant growth, but these SHOs are a bit newer to the Aquarium hobby.

Dollar per dollar, there’s likely no better plant light, whether aquarium or terrestrial, especially when used in polished reflector to concentrate light energy.
See: SHO Aquarium, Hydroponics CFL, lighting

Watts Per Gallon: As a generalization, 2 to 2.5 watts of Daylight SHO Lights are required for planted freshwater aquariums
For Marine Reef, 2.25 to 2.75 watts of these SHO lights (possibly mixed with other light types for the UV-A blue)

T5 Lights
Although not as high in lumens per watt output than its newer cousin, the T5 has many sizes and wattages to fit more high lighting needs aquariums than the T2, and is a popular aquarium light for many good reasons (especially for many reef tanks).
However, many aquarium lighting needs would be served as well or better with lower initial cost and operating costs with a T2 Light; sadly many aquarists (& even aquarium/fish forums) are not even familiar with the T2 and continue to push T5 lights when in many instances the T2 would be the better choice

Watts Per Gallon: As a generalization, 2 to 3 watts of Daylight T5 Lights are required for high light planted freshwater aquariums
For Marine Reef, 2.5 to 4 watts of T5 lights (mixed with actinic UV-A blue)

T8 & T12 Lights

These are the old stand-by of the aquarium industry and are still good for fish only, FOWLR marine aquariums, and low light planted aquariums.
For Reef or high light planted aquariums, these are generally a poor choice, not because they do not work, but because it takes so many of these lamps to produce the results of more modern aquarium lighting options.

Watts Per Gallon: As a generalization, 3-4 watts of Daylight T8-T12 Lights are required for planted freshwater aquariums
For Marine Reef, 4-5 watts of T8 lights (mixed with actinic UV-A blue)

TANK SET UP LIGHTING SUGGESTION EXAMPLE:

As a guide I will make a few suggestions in the following section using a 20, 60, or 100 gallon aquarium, which can then be extrapolated either up or down for larger or smaller aquariums.
Please consider the more in depth article, your personal aquarium parameters, inhabitants, budget (which is always important), when deciding what lighting systems or combinations there of to use.;
Referenced From: Aquarium Lighting Set Up Suggestions

Light (lamp) Placement:

Pendant vs. MirrorThe advantage to a pendant reflector over a mirror (depending on reflection quality) is that it will radiant downward in a slightly more magnified fashion than a mirror, however the mirror has one advantage over the pendant and that is more wide spread light distribution.
So this choice comes down more to tank arrangement of plants or corals.

Light Penetration/Delivery
What’s often a bigger issue, especially with deep reef tanks (over 24 inches) is to allow as much of the blue light {best penetration/delivery) as possible through into your aquarium, as often a glass top will block these light rays (over 60%), so using polycarbonate or no lid at all may do more for effectiveness than whether you use a mirror or pendent (see further in this article for more on this subject).

As well for tanks over 24 inches the use of some higher Kelvin “Daylight” in your light “mix” may be necessary for coral tanks or in some cases high light requiring plant tanks. The use of 14,000K MH in a mix with High PAR 6400K SHO lights may provide the “mix” necessary for deeper tanks.
Even in tanks under 24 inches, the use of actinic blue lights may help provide the correct PAR to specimens lower in your tanks water column; a HO LED light strip may help provide this.

Here are two sellers of these aquarium light products:
SHO Lights &
AAP AquaRay HO LED Lights

It is worthy of note if a LED aquarium light is used, that unlike all other lights generally used in aquarium lighting, these are actually light emitting electronic devices, so protecting these from excessive moisture is important just like you would not subject your computer tablet to undue moisture.
More importantly yet, all but one LED fixture sold for aquarium lighting has a water resistance rating of IP66 or less. The highest rating is IP67 and only the AAP AquaRay line has this rating.
This says a lot, as you might save $30 up front with a Current or Finnex LED [with IP65], but when you consider the risk of damage and poor warranty [as little as 180 days compared to 5 years for the AAP AquaRay], this price savings for what is already a lower output of both quality and quantity of photon light fixtures per input energy, there is really no logical reason to purchase and no amount of optimum light placement will fully protect these poor water resistence light fixtures so commonly sold at discounters.

Specimen Placement

Specimen placement is just as important as light penetration, since a SPS coral or Maxima Clam placed 12 inches under the the water will receive more light energy than these same specimens at 24 inches (this goes for freshwater plants too).
I recommend corals be placed as high up in the water column as possible, this especially important with SPS corals (short polyp stony corals) where placement on the rocks directly under your lights is even more essential.

This is not as essential with LPS corals (long polyp stony corals) since they are more commonly found in sandy lagoon bottoms.
If this light is for Freshwater plants I would move the high light requiring plants directly under the lights (or even elevate them with terracing, which can look quite attractive if done well and serve a dual purpose of aesthetics and better light energy absorption).
Further Reference: Freshwater Aquarium Plant Care, Information

Another aspect of specimen placement is the type of light used.
All fluorescent lights have what is called “Re-Strike” as light is sent in every direction, then striking objects and re-striking the lamp itself, often multiple times, hence “Re-Strike”.

Unless you are using a reflector, which is recommended whenever possible such as with SHO lamps, the area of best placement is not too well defined other than right under the tube or CFL.

The problem with fluorescent lights (in particular without a good conical reflector), is depth penetration; so placement of delicate specimens need to be as close to the surface as possible, in particular with lower powered fluorescent lamps. This is not as much as issue with some HO T5 and SHO lamps.

However, as per Metal Halide or LED lights; these lights have a clearly defined cone under the lights where the Lux/PAR gets lower the further from the center of this cone of light you place your important light sensitive specimens.
So with this in mind, it is important to place high light requiring corals, plants, clams, etc as close to the center of this cone as possible, while placing less sensitive plants, soft corals, etc. further out from this cone of light.

For the full article from which much of this information in this article was used with permission from, including Lighting Types and vastly more expanded & updated lighting information:
AQUARIUM LIGHT; FACTS & INFORMATION

OTHER RELATED/SUGGESTED READING FOR AQUARIUM OR POND KEEPING:

*Aquarium or Pond UV Sterilizer Use; Level One
This is an excellent article for those who value their fish. While many persons have use so-called UV Sterilizers, what in reality were used were UV Clarifiers. This article set this difference straight and explains why spending more money for a true level one UV Sterilizer is worth the investment.

*Saltwater Aquarium Care Information

For the best in premium hot cathode 95% UVC emission UV Bulbs, I suggest these as per my many friends in the aquarium industry/hobby:
* UV Bulbs; For Tetra, Turbo Twist, more

* AAP Wonder Shells
The ONLY authorized online seller of the unique AAP Wonder Shell, including the “patent pending” Medicated version. BEWARE of a broken Google algorithm that directs searches to clearance stock that is not fresh and not authorized!!!

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Posted in Aquarium Lighting, Uncategorized

Tagged Aquarium Light, Aquarium Light Information, Aquarium Lighting, Aquarium Lighting Basics, Aquarium Lights, Aquarium Plant Lights, CFL, Information, lighting, lights, marine aquarium lighting, Planted Aquarium Light, Reef Aquarium Light, Reef Lighting, watts per gallon

Tag Archives: Aquarium Lights

LED Aquarium Light Review- AquaRay, EcoTech, Aqua Illuminations, Finnex & More

*FugeRay Original, Planted +, Marine

*Planted + 24/7

*Finnex Ray 2 DS/DB/BB

*Fluval Fresh, Marine, Eco Bright, Aquasky, Desktop, Ultra Bright

Fresh & Plant 2.0

Marine & Reef Performance LED

Eco Bright

Aquasky

Desktop (Nano) Series- Aura, Halo, Nano

Ultra Bright LED

*Zetlight Qmaven/Maxspect R420R/TMC V2 iLumenAir

*Maxspect Mazarra

*AAP AquaRay AquaBeam/AquaGro- 2000 Reef White, 1500 Ocean Blue, 1500 GroBeam & Colour Plus Tiles

*TMC Aqua Red/Blue Flexi-LED & Truelumen (by Current):

*TMC AquaBar LED:

*Aqua Illumination SOL:

*Aqua Illumination Vega:

*Aqua Illumination Hydra FiftyTwo/TwentySix HD (Hyper Drive):

*Aqua Illumination Prime:

*Current Satellite Freshwater + LED:

*Current Satellite + Pro:

*Ecoxotic Stunner/Panorama:

*Marineland Reef Capable, Single & Double Bright:

*Blue Moon Aquatic 90-watt LED:

*Evergrow & Ocean Revive LED Aquarium Light- Including the OR-D120
As well as the newer Upgraded Black Box SB Reef Lights LED:

*EcoTech Radion:

*Kessil Freshwater & Saltwater

*E.Shine, Stark LED:

*Other LED Aquarium Lights (such as the Boost LED, Orphek):

LED REVIEW SUMMARY

AQUARIUM LIGHTING BASICS; Parameters, Lights Technology

Aquarium Article Digest

Sponsors

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Archives

Tag Archives: Aquarium Lights

LED Aquarium Light Review- AquaRay, EcoTech, Aqua Illuminations, Finnex & More

*FugeRay Original, Planted +, Marine

*Planted + 24/7

*Finnex Ray 2 DS/DB/BB

*Fluval Fresh, Marine, Eco Bright, Aquasky, Desktop, Ultra Bright

Fresh & Plant 2.0

Marine & Reef Performance LED

Eco Bright

Aquasky

Desktop (Nano) Series- Aura, Halo, Nano

Ultra Bright LED

*Zetlight Qmaven/Maxspect R420R/TMC V2 iLumenAir

*Maxspect Mazarra

*AAP AquaRay AquaBeam/AquaGro- 2000 Reef White, 1500 Ocean Blue, 1500 GroBeam & Colour Plus Tiles

*TMC Aqua Red/Blue Flexi-LED & Truelumen (by Current):

*TMC AquaBar LED:

*Aqua Illumination SOL:

*Aqua Illumination Vega:

*Aqua Illumination Hydra FiftyTwo/TwentySix HD (Hyper Drive):

*Aqua Illumination Prime:

*Current Satellite Freshwater + LED:

*Current Satellite + Pro:

*Ecoxotic Stunner/Panorama:

*Marineland Reef Capable, Single & Double Bright:

*Blue Moon Aquatic 90-watt LED:

*Evergrow & Ocean Revive LED Aquarium Light- Including the OR-D120 As well as the newer Upgraded Black Box SB Reef Lights LED:

*EcoTech Radion:

*Kessil Freshwater & Saltwater

*E.Shine, Stark LED:

*Other LED Aquarium Lights (such as the Boost LED, Orphek):

LED REVIEW SUMMARY

AQUARIUM LIGHTING BASICS; Parameters, Lights Technology

Aquarium Article Digest

Sponsors

Recent Posts

Blogroll

Archives

*Evergrow & Ocean Revive LED Aquarium Light- Including the OR-D120
As well as the newer Upgraded Black Box SB Reef Lights LED: